Irish blog notes May 2023
Monday 21 May
Margaret collected me from International airport. I met her near M&S where she went shopping.
We drove back to Ballymoney, then later took Bonny, Margaret’s little dog, to some friends nearby to be looked after while we were away down south.
Margaret made a delicious salmon stir fry dinner, which we enjoyed in front of the telly, watching the start of Maryland series then bed.
Tuesday 22 May
To start the day we had breakfast of poached egg bacon and wheaten.
We then set off on our long journey for Westport through Derry and Sligo. We stopped for lunch at Yeats Inn – where we chose prawns tempura, salad and chips.
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We then pressed on to Westport like Margaret was on a mission.
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We passed the famous Matt Moloy pub which Gene had mentioned was worth a visit. (I play badminton with Gene in Charlbury and she has a house in Westport).
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We arrived at Hotel Knockranny about 3.30 – a beautiful spot looking out to sea. It was a very grand hotel and Margaret had managed to get a special deal for a 3-night stay.
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We drove around a bit checking out the pretty little town of Westport, then up to Clare’s Oak Lodge to deliver water bottle that Margaret had promised to one of her grandchildren. Clare is Margaret’s youngest daughter and lives at Oak Lodge with her husband Johnny and their three sons. There was no one home but Margaret had a key which for some reason did not work. We would call back later. We then went down to the Keys (the harbour in Westport) and found Tutulia Book Shop as described by Gene.
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Inside I made myself known to the owner who was selling Gene’s husband’s book (The Accidental Foreign Correspondent). They knew Gene and Ian very well. I bought a book for Martha then we drove up to Westport house and had a walk around… beautiful! Finally we returned to the hotel for shower and dinner of delicious chowder. We returned to Clare’s in the evening when she was home from work.
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It was delightful to meet Clare’s family, the boys gave me such a lovely welcome even though we had never met before – JJ, Ollie and Finley, then eventually Dad, Johnny came in from work. Margaret had brought them all goodies. Finley aged 6 recited a song about bananas, so talented and confident.
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Wed 23 May
For Breakfast in the hotel we chose avocado lime and coriander with poached eggs – not a good mix we decided! And the coffee was a tad weak.
We headed down to look around the Nun’s Abbey with its walled gardens and little church, built in memory of the owner’s wife Margaret who died suddenly.
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I was intrigued by the columns of Irish granite in various colours, having done a bit of stone carving myself.
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We found The Misunderstood Heron, a delightful ‘shed’ restaurant on the edge of a lake.
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It was a beautiful, peaceful spot… lovely colours for painting with rhododendrons growing wild and gorse in full flower as if dipped in egg yoke.
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We had the most delicious smoked mackerel mung bean salad with good sourdough and coffee. We continued our beautiful drive through a mountainous area along the lake and some narrow roads. We returned via Old Head where I’d hoped to have a swim but the tide was out.
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It was a pretty little bay, safe for children. We returned to the hotel late in the afternoon and decided on a swim in the pool and sauna. Later we met up with Clare in Matt Maloys, a pub famous for its live Irish music. The leader of the famous Coda band was playing. I had my first Guinness! Then back to hotel for a cocktail in the bar, late to bed at about 1.
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Thursday 24 May
We slept right through to 9am! Such comfy beds! We dashed down not to miss our breakfast slot and I had a big fry… way too much! This morning I asked for a latte instead of weak coffee!
Today we went down to the keys to meet Neil and Brid in the bookshop Tertulia.
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They remembered Gene and Kieron and we chatted a while and I bought a book for Martha – The Black Sheep of Connemara. We walked about looking at galleries etc then went into Westport where we met Clare for lunch at ‘This must be the Place’
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I was still feeling full from breakfast so just shared a Ceaser salad with Margaret. We walked about the town for a bit and bought some little gifts for the boys before returning to the hotel to rest.
Margaret took us all out to dinner in the evening for Clare’s birthday. The Pantry and Corkscrew. Excellent hock salad starter followed by braised beef then cheesecake with basil cream.
We said our goodbyes to Johnny while Clare and the boys came back to see hotel. The boys played card tricks on us. Then we said our goodbyes and returned to bar for cocktails …. earlier night tonight.
Friday 25 May
We packed to return home. Again a long drive with a mission! We stopped at Bundoran and bought fresh takeaway fish and chips to eat by the sea.
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Continued on… a couple of missed turns off roundabouts then finally arrived on the outskirts of Ballymoney where we stopped at Fedela for delicious scone and clotted cream and coffee. We arrived home about 5 to collect the dog.
Here is a map showing Westport in relation to the Antrim Coast.
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Sat 26 May
We started the day with a big fried breakfast before heading off to Ballycastle. We walked the dog around a lovely park area along a tributary to the River Bann. There were lots of birds which were quite tame.
A chillier morning for our Carrick-a-rede boat trip but great fun once we headed round the coast. We saw seals, razorbills and gillimots and passed Smugglers caves. There were amazing limestone colours in the rocky cliffs. We saw tiny people walking across rope bridge. As we arrived back into Ballycastle we passed a big sailing galleon anchored in the harbour.
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We returned to shore and wandered round a fair of local and handmade produce where we bought pulled pork lunch and ate it at a bench overlooking the sea. Then we went to Shorebird Cafe on the beach for a coffee and cake.
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We visited Salmon Rock Beach before returning home. The coastline and beaches in Ireland are just something else! We relaxed the rest of the day back at Ballymoney and watched the rest of 3-part series Maryland.
Sunday 27 May
We fried our potato and soda bread bought from fair. Just chilled out. Went for Sunday lunch at The Brown Trout Country Club. Very nice roast beef and apple sponge.
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Returning home, we walked Bonny then just chilled out.
Monday 28 May
Last day with Margaret… I fried us up some more soda & potato bread and mushrooms, bacon and eggs and brewed some excellent coffee.
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Is this heaven or what!! We walked Bonny up by Sammy’s Georgian farm where we noticed nettles and cow parsley drooping. He had two robot mowers at work on front and back lawns while he was out.
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Back to the house and wandered round the garden looking at plants then coffee and biscuits in the front garden in the warm sunshine before I packed up Ros’s little Fiat and said my goodbyes.
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I stopped off at the little white church in Ballintoy then down to harbour. Very peaceful and one of my favourite places on an absolutely gorgeous day!
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I called at a small cafe in Cushiondall for lunch – chilli chicken salad, then proceeded down the familiar and beautiful Antrim coast, now called ‘Antrim Coast and Glens’ by the Tourist Board. One or two motorcyclists passed me doing the ton for testosterone fix!
I arrived in Ballygally around 3.30 and although the beach was packed like Bournemouth – I had never seen it like this before – I decided to swim and conveniently parked in carpark beside the shop. The water was very cold but fine once immersed. I had hoped Christine might join me but she didn’t pick up message and anyway resting with a bit of a cold.
In the evening we had a lovely prawn stir fry in the garden. The weather continuing to be beautiful and we walked up the back fields to a little cottage ruin and watched the sun go down.
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Tuesday 29 May
The day of the Gobbins Cliff walk and how lucky were we with the weather.
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We were told no need for coats or jumpers. The scenery was spectacular from our rugged pathway but sadly no sign of puffins. Later a guide told me they shed their coloured beak after mating and inhabit old rabbit burrows so they are very hard to see.
In the afternoon we drove along the coast to Drummagadee and had lunch outside an Inn on the harbour and visited the Distillery. Although it was closed for tours, we had a drink outside.
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On the way back and to take a break from heavy Belfast traffic, we stopped at Hazelbank Park where they had set up a whimsical garden to commemorate the coronation of Prince Charles… impressive with moving trees and giant aliums.
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Wednesday 31 May
We’re looking after Ben (Christine’s grandson) this morning.
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Following delight we ran a few errands in Larne then met up with Raymond and Kay at The Dairy for lunch – delicious pulled lamb.
We went round to their house and chatted with Kay while Raymond collected Charlotte and Ruby from school.
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Eventually we returned and relaxed in the garden with Ben and barking Luna. Jill finally joined us with baby Margot. We had a lovely supper of monkfish curry before they had to go.
I heard Raymond’s grandchildren having fun in their garden and popped over the road to say hello. Lovely chat with Ruth and Ryan.
In the evening John took Christine and I to The Halfway House near Gleno for some Baileys and Irish music. Billy Andy’s was closed.
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Thursday 1 June
Summer weather still going with a swing. Motored down to just South of Loch Neigh to visit friends from Charlbury, Lindsay and Jim, who had recently bought a house in Ireland near their daughter.
I arrived at Barton’s Bay just near their house and stretched my legs by the Loch. Such a tranquil place.
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My satnav took me to the wrong place when I finally went to find the house, although the description was similar. A kindly woman let me use her landline to phone Lyndsay as my mobile was almost flat.
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I finally arrived at the most beautiful house with very pretty pony in the paddock. Then discovered their daughter Dominique kept horses. I was to see her place just down the road later.
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I was shown around this very stylish substantial house filled with paintings, many from Charlbury artists. The views from the house are stunning, all around. Then they took me to see Dom and Andrew’s house with beautiful stone and brick farm buildings where they housed their 9 horses.
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Dom and Andrew joined us for dinner. An amazing artistic starter of local Loch Neigh Eel with venison salami apple and sweet dressing. Delicious! Then coq au vin with champ, carrots and sprouts, then lime cheesecake, followed by cheese and biscuits. It was a lovely chatty meal round their big dining table.
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Finally fell into bed about 11.
Friday 2 June
Warm night. Woke to a rather grey morning with promise of sunshine at 9. Fruit juice and more chat than off to Moira, a smart little town not far away. We had a full Irish breakfast and coffee at Fina then wandered round an extensive garden centre that started with a few plants outside the door on the street. We were looking for buddliea for the garden but none to be found.
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Then we drove to a nearby RSPB bird sanctuary. Birdsong was everywhere. We walked along a wooden boarded path through a wooded area then out onto the marshes to a hide where we were mesmerised by many black headed terns from our viewing post.
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We returned for a cuppa and further chat about art and post Impressionism before saying our goodbyes and I hit the road back to Gleno.
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Back in Gleno on a warm sunny summer’s evening, Fish and chips in the garden. What a fabulous welcome!
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Saturday 3 June
Christine and I took the train to Belfast from Glynn, along the coast.
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We met Shirley, Ian and Sandra for lunch at the The Dean at Queens. We had a good catch up then walked with Sandra to Botanical Gardens. On arrival we found it was closed for Lionel Ritchie concert. We sat a while on the grass to chat before saying our goodbyes then proceeded back to station to get train home only to find signal issues. We walked to Lanyon station, stopping en route for glass of wine in large pop up eating/drinking area full of young people. We continued to Lanyon station where we got a train to Whitehead. One hour wait for next train to Glynn so went to Whitecliff pub for an Irish Whisky!
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We finally arrived back about 7 just in time to go out to Billy Andy’s for pre booked dinner. This was my treat to John and Christine.
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After dinner we chased the sun down to Ballygally beach, a beautiful light on the sea.
Sunday 4 June
Packed then off to Raloo Church. The only hymn I knew was Shine Jesus Shine but soon picked up on the others. Good to sing again. Jim Moore was at church and the plan was for him to take me from there.
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Good catch up with Jim and Rosemary. Later bubbly in the newly discovered Santorini Garden with Gemma and Chris joining us. Finally over to the Homestead (Isle of Glass) for farmyard barbecue with Jennifer and Stephen et al, including Sandra and Andy. Hot evening and lovely end to my Irish trip.
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Monday 5 June
Leisurely breakfast with Rosemary and Jim before Jim dropped me off at the International Airport for the EasyJet flight home. Believe it or not I had got myself to the wrong airport. The first time in all my many trips to Ireland over the years. Fortunately Jim wasn’t far away and kindly returned to take me to Belfast City! Silly me.
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Up up and away…..