Breakfast was taken buffet style in the revolving g restaurant. When I got up to fetch some toast, I returned to find my table had gone! It had revolved a semi-circle and other members of the group chuckled at the table.
We set off after breakfast for the Agra Fort where we met our guide. Dot and I decided to go at our own pace as we had difficulty hearing or even understanding the guide.
We could see the Taj Mahal in the distance framed in the fretwork of the fort.
We were then taken to watch how Indian carpets are made. The process could take ten months for just one carpet.
Lunch was taken at a cafe run to support the victims of acid attacks. They gave us a delicious lunch of Dal, Paneer Masala and nan bread, after which we watched a documentary about some of the attacks.
We left Agra for the 5 hour journey back to Delhi with just a brief toilet stop at Starbucks en route.
Delicious breakfast included – banana and yoghurt, freshly made Spanish omelette, followed by toast and honey and coffee.
We said our goodbyes and thank you’s to the staff and left at 7.30 for our 2 hour drive to one-time capital of the Mughal empire, Fatehpur Sikri.
Here we stopped for a guided tour round another fort before our final hour and a half to Agra.
We arrived at Pushp Villa Hotel and took a buffet lunch in the revolving bar (which didn’t revolve for us) on the top floor. We then had a couple of hours rest before our highlight of the week. Our room was noisy with traffic outside so we changed to a back room over looking garden. However we had to change again later because the air on was very noisy.
The minibus made it’s was through another very busy but more touristy town to a car park where we took to a golf jeep to take us the last stretch. We had to go through security but finally there it was, a majestic building which could have been made of ice as it calmly rose up at the end of a long stretch of water. Many people had come to see the light on the great dome at sunset, although it wasn’t too busy that you couldn’t walk towards it in wonder and touch the towering pillars of marble. We walked through the tomb where we were not allowed to take photos and through to the other side where the great river flowed close by.
Everyone had to leave immediately after sunset and I imagined what a tranquil place it must be then.
We returned to the hotel to freshen up before dinner.
Chicken tikka from the bbq was my choice at the rooftop bar of the Maya restaurant.
A pino colada to round off the day in our hotel bar before bed.
Met a very interesting lady at breakfast from New York, who had arrived overnight and was about to join an Art Residency. for 2 weeks (Wolf Residency). Left Jaipur at 10 for two and a half drive to the Heritage Homestay. In the suburbs as we left the region, random cows usually singly on the side of the road, very beautifully dressed colourful ladies sometimes balancing a large circular tray of something on their heads or travelling side- saddle pillion on a motorcycle, sometimes whole families on a motorcycle with a tot astride in front. Parents always carry small children, no pushchairs… no room! We drive through a region of stoneworks with many Shrine type carvings for sale. Eventually we turn off the main road on to a farm track which seems to go on endlessly through farm settlements.
Have arrived at the Heritage – Lotwara Fort – just wow!!!!
After a light lunch we were able to relax and enjoy the pool. Dot had a design put on the back of her hand in henna.
At 4 when it was a little cooler we were taken on a walk around the village and learnt about village life in India. We shook hands with many small children who were delighted to see us. Each time Hershe, our group leader, comes here, she plants a tree in the school grounds. So this is what we did. The guys dug a big hole. To show respect, Rob in our group was made honourable by having a turban wound on to his head.
As we walked round we saw wild peacocks, monkeys, chipmunks and pied starlings. There were also cows, goats and dogs, some with puppies.
We watched the sun go down on the roof of the fort – a deep red framed in the Indian architectural structure at the front of the fort.
A dance display was performed by one of the villagers and we all joined in at the end before going to the restaurant for our included set dinner.
Breakfast in the garden to the dulcet tones of a citar player.
Some of our group had an early start hot air ballooning. We all set off together at 9.15 in the minibus for the Amber Palace way up on a hill. The bus could only go so far and then we took to jeeps for the rough steep climb to the top.
The views from the top were stunning. We learnt a lot about the king and his wives and corcubines. The architecture was amazing with intricately carved marble and stonework and painted patterns using natural colours.
There were so many wonderful patterns and designs, U couldn’t include them all here.
We had lunch at AARNANDAM restaurant then Dot and I returned by tuktuk to the hotel to rest as the heat was getting to us.
The group met up on the roof garden where the guys had been sharing some Kingfisher beers then Dot and I left in a tuktuk to make our way to a family about half an hour away for our Indian cookery lesson. It was a very bumby and busy ride through the rush hour.
we were finally greeted with garlands placed over our heads and dots on our foreheads. mum and two daughters led us upstairs where we met dad and two young boy helpers.
We sat on a sofa and acquainted ourselves before moving to the kitchen to begin cooking. The tensions left us all as we added herbs and spices and rolled the dough. I was particularly keen to see how to make Masala chai. After a tasty meal of Lental Dhal with Paneer curry, plain rice, spiced cumin potatoes, followed by Sweet almond balls, and chatting about every possible subject with mother and daughter, we left in an Uber around 9pm. The driver spent most of the half hour journey texting just leaning on the steering wheel!
We gathered in the lobby at 6 am for our long drive to Jaipur. The air was comfortably cool and unbelievably few people about. A monkey leapt across a rooftop as we left the Florence Hotel.
Delhi looked very scruffy with the rubbish from the previous day and few people. Usual traffic built up with horns sounding until we left Delhi, which can only be described as organised chaos! Good motorway drive, very green, due to global warming. This used to be desert. There were many trees unusual shape. Black long tailed bird probably a black drongo flew over.
Stopped for breakfast as we entered Rajisthan region. Parantha Dahl for breakfast- very filling!
Two and a half more hours to Jaipur. Fast motorway, long stretch of roadside bushes with yellow flowers, but also many dark pink ones
The driver sits on the right. They appear to overtake on both sides. Not sure if there’s a fast and slow lane. We pass through many tolled gates along the way.
Area of big tall chimneys – for firing terracotta bricks
We have left the motorway and entered Jaipur area and seem to be going higher into the mountains now – through a long tunnel through a mountain.
More built up area. Often see a young child holding an even smaller sibling
We finally arrived at our hotel, a beautiful old colonial style building set in calm gardens away from the busy streets and sounding horns.
After being shown our rooms, we met up for some lunch in the restaurant. I had a delicious Greek salad, and we discussed the afternoon’s plans. Then after a relaxing break, we met up at 3pm for an orienteering walk in the city.
Here we experienced the market stalls, selling mainly spices, in a more relaxed way. We were briefly shown two beautiful palaces. In 1759 The king of Rajesthan came to Jaipur to live and the whole town was painted pink to welcome him.
We were then taken in the minibus to see some
Block printing, which was very interesting. ~ check where Indian colours come from. Colours oxidise in the sun. I had a go block printing and created a 4 colour elephant. I would’ve liked some elephant cushion covers but they couldn’t do block printing in the dark blue colour I wanted. But I did buy a nice silk scarf. They offered us Masala Chai.
Fabulous rooftop dinner with view of Amber Fort on the hill. I had lamb masala. Forts were built by kings.
We celebrated Bernie’s birthday with chocolate cake.
Great night’s sleep which was needed for the day ahead! Breakfast was orange juice, a boiled egg, chicken sausage and toast with coffee. We all met up at 9am for our first excursion which involved the Metro. This was an excellent transport system carrying 8 million people per day! It took us to a mosque the Jama Masjid, designed by the same person who designed the Taj Mahal. Then we walked through market stall and a colourful street of beads, garlands and wedding regalia. Some interesting architecture in a narrow street. Lunch which was like street food but in a safer environment.
Finally we were led through the spice market and up some steps to a wholesale area where sacks of every spice and herb imaginable was on display. And many deliveries were carried out … several sacks and boxes balanced precariously on heads up steep stone steps.
We returned by the same rickshaw and got the metro back to our hotel.
Dinner this evening was a restaurant just off a street nearby which could have been Oxford Street in London – Christmas lights and all. This evening I had a vegetable roll with veggie rice and tasty nan bread washed down with our favourite Kingfisher beer.
After ten hour flight from Heathrow and a good half hour getting through immigration, we tackled the crazy streets of Delhi. Glad I chose to be collected by Intrepid. Vehicles all shapes and sizes had ‘sound horn’ written on the back …so of course that’s what everyone did! No rules, no white markings, everyone just jostles for space so you can be within a centimetre of a tuktuk, motorbike or lorry sometimes at speed and all making their presence known loudly.
In a particularly busy area I noticed a cow lying down at the side of the road, happy as you like! On a roundabout two small children begging when traffic came to a standstill as it often did. One child was no more than two!
I finally arrived at our destination, The Florence Inn, and met up with fellow Intrepids. Here we are having dinner with our group leader, Harshe, at a nearby restaurant.
My travel buddy, Dot, has not yet arrived as her flight from Manchester was coming in quite late.
Margaret collected me from International airport. I met her near M&S where she went shopping.
We drove back to Ballymoney, then later took Bonny, Margaret’s little dog, to some friends nearby to be looked after while we were away down south.
Margaret made a delicious salmon stir fry dinner, which we enjoyed in front of the telly, watching the start of Maryland series then bed.
Tuesday 22 May
To start the day we had breakfast of poached egg bacon and wheaten.
We then set off on our long journey for Westport through Derry and Sligo. We stopped for lunch at Yeats Inn – where we chose prawns tempura, salad and chips.
We then pressed on to Westport like Margaret was on a mission.
We passed the famous Matt Moloy pub which Gene had mentioned was worth a visit. (I play badminton with Gene in Charlbury and she has a house in Westport).
We arrived at Hotel Knockranny about 3.30 – a beautiful spot looking out to sea. It was a very grand hotel and Margaret had managed to get a special deal for a 3-night stay.
We drove around a bit checking out the pretty little town of Westport, then up to Clare’s Oak Lodge to deliver water bottle that Margaret had promised to one of her grandchildren. Clare is Margaret’s youngest daughter and lives at Oak Lodge with her husband Johnny and their three sons. There was no one home but Margaret had a key which for some reason did not work. We would call back later. We then went down to the Keys (the harbour in Westport) and found Tutulia Book Shop as described by Gene.
Inside I made myself known to the owner who was selling Gene’s husband’s book (The Accidental Foreign Correspondent). They knew Gene and Ian very well. I bought a book for Martha then we drove up to Westport house and had a walk around… beautiful! Finally we returned to the hotel for shower and dinner of delicious chowder. We returned to Clare’s in the evening when she was home from work.
It was delightful to meet Clare’s family, the boys gave me such a lovely welcome even though we had never met before – JJ, Ollie and Finley, then eventually Dad, Johnny came in from work. Margaret had brought them all goodies. Finley aged 6 recited a song about bananas, so talented and confident.
Wed 23 May
For Breakfast in the hotel we chose avocado lime and coriander with poached eggs – not a good mix we decided! And the coffee was a tad weak.
We headed down to look around the Nun’s Abbey with its walled gardens and little church, built in memory of the owner’s wife Margaret who died suddenly.
I was intrigued by the columns of Irish granite in various colours, having done a bit of stone carving myself.
We found The Misunderstood Heron, a delightful ‘shed’ restaurant on the edge of a lake.
It was a beautiful, peaceful spot… lovely colours for painting with rhododendrons growing wild and gorse in full flower as if dipped in egg yoke.
We had the most delicious smoked mackerel mung bean salad with good sourdough and coffee. We continued our beautiful drive through a mountainous area along the lake and some narrow roads. We returned via Old Head where I’d hoped to have a swim but the tide was out.
It was a pretty little bay, safe for children. We returned to the hotel late in the afternoon and decided on a swim in the pool and sauna. Later we met up with Clare in Matt Maloys, a pub famous for its live Irish music. The leader of the famous Coda band was playing. I had my first Guinness! Then back to hotel for a cocktail in the bar, late to bed at about 1.
Thursday 24 May
We slept right through to 9am! Such comfy beds! We dashed down not to miss our breakfast slot and I had a big fry… way too much! This morning I asked for a latte instead of weak coffee!
Today we went down to the keys to meet Neil and Brid in the bookshop Tertulia.
They remembered Gene and Kieron and we chatted a while and I bought a book for Martha – The Black Sheep of Connemara. We walked about looking at galleries etc then went into Westport where we met Clare for lunch at ‘This must be the Place’
I was still feeling full from breakfast so just shared a Ceaser salad with Margaret. We walked about the town for a bit and bought some little gifts for the boys before returning to the hotel to rest.
Margaret took us all out to dinner in the evening for Clare’s birthday. The Pantry and Corkscrew. Excellent hock salad starter followed by braised beef then cheesecake with basil cream.
We said our goodbyes to Johnny while Clare and the boys came back to see hotel. The boys played card tricks on us. Then we said our goodbyes and returned to bar for cocktails …. earlier night tonight.
Friday 25 May
We packed to return home. Again a long drive with a mission! We stopped at Bundoran and bought fresh takeaway fish and chips to eat by the sea.
Continued on… a couple of missed turns off roundabouts then finally arrived on the outskirts of Ballymoney where we stopped at Fedela for delicious scone and clotted cream and coffee. We arrived home about 5 to collect the dog.
Here is a map showing Westport in relation to the Antrim Coast.
Sat 26 May
We started the day with a big fried breakfast before heading off to Ballycastle. We walked the dog around a lovely park area along a tributary to the River Bann. There were lots of birds which were quite tame.
A chillier morning for our Carrick-a-rede boat trip but great fun once we headed round the coast. We saw seals, razorbills and gillimots and passed Smugglers caves. There were amazing limestone colours in the rocky cliffs. We saw tiny people walking across rope bridge. As we arrived back into Ballycastle we passed a big sailing galleon anchored in the harbour.
We returned to shore and wandered round a fair of local and handmade produce where we bought pulled pork lunch and ate it at a bench overlooking the sea. Then we went to Shorebird Cafe on the beach for a coffee and cake.
We visited Salmon Rock Beach before returning home. The coastline and beaches in Ireland are just something else! We relaxed the rest of the day back at Ballymoney and watched the rest of 3-part series Maryland.
Sunday 27 May
We fried our potato and soda bread bought from fair. Just chilled out. Went for Sunday lunch at The Brown Trout Country Club. Very nice roast beef and apple sponge.
Returning home, we walked Bonny then just chilled out.
Monday 28 May
Last day with Margaret… I fried us up some more soda & potato bread and mushrooms, bacon and eggs and brewed some excellent coffee.
Is this heaven or what!! We walked Bonny up by Sammy’s Georgian farm where we noticed nettles and cow parsley drooping. He had two robot mowers at work on front and back lawns while he was out.
Back to the house and wandered round the garden looking at plants then coffee and biscuits in the front garden in the warm sunshine before I packed up Ros’s little Fiat and said my goodbyes.
I stopped off at the little white church in Ballintoy then down to harbour. Very peaceful and one of my favourite places on an absolutely gorgeous day!
I called at a small cafe in Cushiondall for lunch – chilli chicken salad, then proceeded down the familiar and beautiful Antrim coast, now called ‘Antrim Coast and Glens’ by the Tourist Board. One or two motorcyclists passed me doing the ton for testosterone fix!
I arrived in Ballygally around 3.30 and although the beach was packed like Bournemouth – I had never seen it like this before – I decided to swim and conveniently parked in carpark beside the shop. The water was very cold but fine once immersed. I had hoped Christine might join me but she didn’t pick up message and anyway resting with a bit of a cold.
In the evening we had a lovely prawn stir fry in the garden. The weather continuing to be beautiful and we walked up the back fields to a little cottage ruin and watched the sun go down.
Tuesday 29 May
The day of the Gobbins Cliff walk and how lucky were we with the weather.
We were told no need for coats or jumpers. The scenery was spectacular from our rugged pathway but sadly no sign of puffins. Later a guide told me they shed their coloured beak after mating and inhabit old rabbit burrows so they are very hard to see.
In the afternoon we drove along the coast to Drummagadee and had lunch outside an Inn on the harbour and visited the Distillery. Although it was closed for tours, we had a drink outside.
On the way back and to take a break from heavy Belfast traffic, we stopped at Hazelbank Park where they had set up a whimsical garden to commemorate the coronation of Prince Charles… impressive with moving trees and giant aliums.
Wednesday 31 May
We’re looking after Ben (Christine’s grandson) this morning.
Following delight we ran a few errands in Larne then met up with Raymond and Kay at The Dairy for lunch – delicious pulled lamb.
We went round to their house and chatted with Kay while Raymond collected Charlotte and Ruby from school.
Eventually we returned and relaxed in the garden with Ben and barking Luna. Jill finally joined us with baby Margot. We had a lovely supper of monkfish curry before they had to go.
I heard Raymond’s grandchildren having fun in their garden and popped over the road to say hello. Lovely chat with Ruth and Ryan.
In the evening John took Christine and I to The Halfway House near Gleno for some Baileys and Irish music. Billy Andy’s was closed.
Thursday 1 June
Summer weather still going with a swing. Motored down to just South of Loch Neigh to visit friends from Charlbury, Lindsay and Jim, who had recently bought a house in Ireland near their daughter.
I arrived at Barton’s Bay just near their house and stretched my legs by the Loch. Such a tranquil place.
My satnav took me to the wrong place when I finally went to find the house, although the description was similar. A kindly woman let me use her landline to phone Lyndsay as my mobile was almost flat.
I finally arrived at the most beautiful house with very pretty pony in the paddock. Then discovered their daughter Dominique kept horses. I was to see her place just down the road later.
I was shown around this very stylish substantial house filled with paintings, many from Charlbury artists. The views from the house are stunning, all around. Then they took me to see Dom and Andrew’s house with beautiful stone and brick farm buildings where they housed their 9 horses.
Dom and Andrew joined us for dinner. An amazing artistic starter of local Loch Neigh Eel with venison salami apple and sweet dressing. Delicious! Then coq au vin with champ, carrots and sprouts, then lime cheesecake, followed by cheese and biscuits. It was a lovely chatty meal round their big dining table.
Finally fell into bed about 11.
Friday 2 June
Warm night. Woke to a rather grey morning with promise of sunshine at 9. Fruit juice and more chat than off to Moira, a smart little town not far away. We had a full Irish breakfast and coffee at Fina then wandered round an extensive garden centre that started with a few plants outside the door on the street. We were looking for buddliea for the garden but none to be found.
Then we drove to a nearby RSPB bird sanctuary. Birdsong was everywhere. We walked along a wooden boarded path through a wooded area then out onto the marshes to a hide where we were mesmerised by many black headed terns from our viewing post.
We returned for a cuppa and further chat about art and post Impressionism before saying our goodbyes and I hit the road back to Gleno.
Back in Gleno on a warm sunny summer’s evening, Fish and chips in the garden. What a fabulous welcome!
Saturday 3 June
Christine and I took the train to Belfast from Glynn, along the coast.
We met Shirley, Ian and Sandra for lunch at the The Dean at Queens. We had a good catch up then walked with Sandra to Botanical Gardens. On arrival we found it was closed for Lionel Ritchie concert. We sat a while on the grass to chat before saying our goodbyes then proceeded back to station to get train home only to find signal issues. We walked to Lanyon station, stopping en route for glass of wine in large pop up eating/drinking area full of young people. We continued to Lanyon station where we got a train to Whitehead. One hour wait for next train to Glynn so went to Whitecliff pub for an Irish Whisky!
We finally arrived back about 7 just in time to go out to Billy Andy’s for pre booked dinner. This was my treat to John and Christine.
After dinner we chased the sun down to Ballygally beach, a beautiful light on the sea.
Sunday 4 June
Packed then off to Raloo Church. The only hymn I knew was Shine Jesus Shine but soon picked up on the others. Good to sing again. Jim Moore was at church and the plan was for him to take me from there.
Good catch up with Jim and Rosemary. Later bubbly in the newly discovered Santorini Garden with Gemma and Chris joining us. Finally over to the Homestead (Isle of Glass) for farmyard barbecue with Jennifer and Stephen et al, including Sandra and Andy. Hot evening and lovely end to my Irish trip.
Monday 5 June
Leisurely breakfast with Rosemary and Jim before Jim dropped me off at the International Airport for the EasyJet flight home. Believe it or not I had got myself to the wrong airport. The first time in all my many trips to Ireland over the years. Fortunately Jim wasn’t far away and kindly returned to take me to Belfast City! Silly me.
Nice relaxed breakfast with Dot, totally oblivious of what lay ahead! Set satnav for ‘home’ and said our goodbyes at 10am with plans for some mini trips together soon. The weather cloudy but dry, ideal for motoring. First stop at 11.15 for a coffee. Luckily I picked up a sandwich for lunch because after making good progress, the traffic ground to a halt near J20 of the M6. I googled… serious accident. After 2 hour’s motionless on the M6 I became desperate for the loo… just had to be creative! At least I could listen to the tennis! Just felt for whoever was involved in what has been revealed as a double accident. Numerous emergency vehicles have been screaming up the hard shoulder as well as air ambulance and police circling the skies requesting us to stay in our cars.
Eventually we were requested by police to turn round from the back of the 7 mile queue and drive back to the previous exit to get off. Now I am totally lost and sitting in a very nice pub in Mere, Cheshire having a bite to eat while the diverted traffic from the M6 still crawls outside.
I eventually arrived home exhausted but alive while someone in the accident would not be going home to their family tonight. The M6 could not be reopened because of a spillage of oil and wine! What a dramatic end to an otherwise fabulous road trip, which I thought had given me back my confidence in driving. I had covered nearly 1400 miles!
Martha had just fallen asleep and there were kitten toys and other items awaiting kitty’s arrival! We decided to call him Bailey after the Irish Cream!
Checked on kitten before breakfast then final guided tour of Carolyn’s beautiful garden before setting off back to the Lakes.
the garden had changed so much in a week… flowers blooming and vegetables bursting!
We walked through her ‘meadow’ by now just full of wild orchids, and she showed me where a Roe Deer had been sleeping during the night and eating the tops of wild plants.
I finally loaded up kitty and we said our farewells. The A75 was such a good clear road. I had followed it from the ferry in Cairnryan and was to stay with it all the way to Carlisle. I decided to take a more coastal route back to Dot’s as it was such a beautiful day. After refuelling all three of us at a service station near Carlisle (mini, me and kitty), I set the satnav for Silloth, a small Victorian seaside town near Maryport.
I stretched my legs along the promenade and ate my chicken sandwich (bought at the service station). It came over quite dark and threatening at one point with rumbles of thunder, so I decided to move on. Then somehow I missed a turning to the main road and instead followed the coast to Allonby. I passed a long queue of people waiting to buy ice cream then stopped near some sand dunes for a walk on the beach, picking up a few coloured stones for my rockery.
I I finally arrived at Dot’s about 4pm and we sat in her garden in the sunshine with a cool orange juice until it was time for dinner.
Dinner was delicious fish and chips at ‘the Viv’ the we went down to the beach at Drigg for a stroll and to watch the sunset.
