Maureen's Travel Blog

I woke to hear rain on the window pane…no worries, the garden really needed it after such a hot spell.

After breakfast Julie and I went into Monmouth. She wanted to show me around her favorite town where she’d often thought about moving to if the garden became too much for her. I had also planned to treat myself to some Hereford steak.

We pottered around the town checking out charity shops (kept seeing blue china for you Marie) and bought a couple of art books on skies as I shall be joining a painting workshop on the subject next week.  We also went round an art gallery which was quite inspirational.  Some details of paintings below which were quite stylish.

Julie was dying to show me a very special door (knowing my love of old doors for painting purposes). This one was in miniature, like a hobbit door into a tree!  It was so cute and there was no reference to it anywhere nearby.

By now the hot sun was beating down on us again and we enjoyed a coffee and some yummy Welsh cakes outside a street cafe before heading back through the Friday market stalls to the car park.

We returned to Julie’s cottage for a bowl of homemade mushroom soup before I packed up the car for my return journey. But first over to the paddock behind to see if there were any mushrooms to take home.  Sadly not one! However I did meet the neighbour’ chickens whose eggs I’d been enjoying in salads.  I also tried to photograph a huge buzzard high in the tree, but he flew off just as I focused him.

After saying our goodbyes, I headed up to Garway Hill. From here you can see seven counties blended in an awesome panoramic view of patchwork dotted with tiny tree blobs  disappearing into a blue haze in the distance. The skies were huge with summery fluffy white clouds gathering on the horizon all around, a fitting finale to the first part of my mini UK road trip.  I think I will call it “Wye to Wales?”.
As I made my way back down the hill path which was like green velvet, closely cropped by the ponies and sheep, I heard the occasional “baa” but couldn’t see anything (one popped its head up above the bracken occasionally, startled by me no doubt.

It was a steep and narrow drive back down to the main road, and not without incident!  First I met a 4×4 whose driver clearly expected me to reverse back up the hill to a passing place.  I rather thought he had the advantage but who was I to argue.

Next I came face to face with a sheep coming up the hill in the centre of the track. He had that defiant look.  He even looked back down the track and baaed “No way”.   He definitely had the advantage but I found myself reversing yet again FOR A SHEEP!  I then noticed a warning light on my dashboard. Oh no what now and 100 miles from home!?  I stopped to check my manual to find that it just referred to indicator malfunction.  As both indicators appeared to be working fine, I chose to ignore it!
I set the set nav for Ross on Wye as I had become somewhat disorientated on the hill. However it was not a good time to stop in Ross as the traffic was so heavy, so I decided to continue home.  I will definitely take a run out to Ross again some time soon and spend longer there by the River Wye as it really isn’t far.

Just wanted to add a final image, that special scene across the Chadlington Down whenever I return to Charlbury from the west…. the harvest had all been done here and it was looking somewhat brown, but a wonderful view nevertheless!

I heard a bit of scuffling outside on the landing in the night but thought nothing much of it but when I got up at 6.30 to use the bathroom Julie was already downstairs and feeling quite fed up.  She had been up in the night (and across the common in her jammies and wellies) with Merlin.  Merlin had some tummy trouble during the night…. say no more.

Anyway this meant I got tea in bed which was lovely.  I got up about 8 and had a lovely hot bath before civilised breakfast in the dining room… mueslie, summer fruits, toast and coffee and a good chinwag!!  By this time it was late morning and the sun was shining so we took Merlin for a walk through Garway where Julie showed me some wonderful views where you could see for miles… I felt a Hockney coming on!  We had worn our waterproofs just in case but the sun was very hot on our backs and we had to change when we got home again.

Julie showed me round her new workshop which was the end part of the cottage. It used to be a cowshed but she had converted it by fitting it out with cupboards and worktops and new quirky lighting and laminate flooring.  We then went through to her kitchen garden where she had planted all manner of vegetables, including rows of sweetcorn, courgettes, runner beans, etc.  She was even able to cut a full grown cucumber in the greenhouse which we had for lunch in our salad. We walked on round to the side and front garden, where there was a terrific assortment of flowers growing, including trees and shrubs with Lilac and Buddleia covered in butterflies.

There were pots of stunning magenta Cosmos on either side of the front door which prompted us to sit and paint…..well I got a sudden urge to paint, while Julie was less inclined.  However, we both decided we would do it together which we did, and it was so much fun.  As the sun was still warm, we set up in the garden and did some quick sketches of the cosmos then as raindrops fell on to our paintings we fled indoors but picked some flowers to paint close up in a vase. Somewhere along the way we fitted in a healthy salad lunch among the paints and spent the rest of the day absorbed in our work and even added Schubert’s Piano Sonato in A for relaxation and concentration.   It was pure delight! Here are the fruits of our efforts…

We cleared away around 5 o’clock and got ready to go out to the local pub where it was curry night.  We met Colin, a friend of Julie’s, who very kindly treated us to drinks and a most delicious meal.

I was a little while getting to sleep last night as there was a child jumping on and off a bunk bed on the floor above (or so it seemed), but it was still early so i couldn’t really complain. I woke at 6.30 and read for a bit. The girls packed up and left at 7 but I lay in til 8! It was so quiet. I looked out to see that it was still dry despite the ominous forecast. I washed dressed and headed to the dining room to grab a coffee. I didn’t think I could justify a full English breakfast as I hadn’t planned a day’s hike nor a strenuous paddle down the river in a canoe. The friendly very Welsh cook brought me a tray with cafetiere milk sugar and huge cup and saucer onto the terrace. So I spent the next half an hour relaxing with my book.

It was still mild and dry so I decided to take a walk along the river and very soon found myself at a footbridge which was part of disused railway. On walking over the river I found myself back where my sat nav has taken me the evening before… so close! There was also an old railway tunnel entrance leading through the hill but it looked too dark and spooky to enter. The wild flowers and trees along the river were totally unspoilt with many oak trees.

Now I could feel moisture in the air so returned to the car and headed to Goodrich Castle where I spent a couple of hours going back to medieval times. The views from the turrets were awesome. I think I’m all castled out now!

Eventually I was back on the road and on my way to Julie’s but first a quick visit to Monmouth before the rain really set in. The landmark here is a medieval gateway over the river but it was too wet to walk around much. I headed on to Garway. I knew Julie from some 7 years ago when we had worked together at Andrew Lawson Photography in Charlbury. At that time she was a garden designer. In fact a whole group of is who were quite artistic worked part time for Andrew. Julie eventually moved away to get married to Richard, a Rambler friend, and we all came down here to the wedding which was a lovely occasion. He spends a lot of time abroad however.

Anyway my sat nav took me fairly close to Julie’s cottage and, seeing her waving, helped with the last bit. She has a massive Labradoodle called Merlin, who greeted me at the door. We chatted and chatted catching up on the last year as she had been to stay with me just over a year ago for an ALP reunion. Then she produced a wonderful salad spread before we eventually retired to bed.

lovely firm bed. Then again a leisurely breakfast with Judy, packed ready to leave, then coffee on the swing seat in her garden again. It is as warm as ever. After we had said our goodbyes (and she insisted on making me a smoked salmon sandwich for lunch and adding a peach and banana to the bag) I headed back down to the city to visit the Art Museum that was closed yesterday. I spent three hours studying the wonderful selection of paintings covering most periods, nationalities and styles. My favourite as always is the French Impressionist period but I was also treated to a feast of Turner.

The ground floor was devoted to natural history and was set up with stuffed creatures placed in their natural habitat… mainly for school groups.
I felt pretty tired by the time I returned to my car and sat for a while eating my lunch snack. Thank you Judy, it just hit the spot!
Now I had to decide whether to head up the coast or go direct to Monmouth. I had received a call from Julie on my mobile in the museum saying that she had a meeting in the evening and I know that I had left arrangements a bit vague so I said I was happy to stay in a YHA tonight. I just needed to make a decision as to whether I would drive up the coast or spend more time in Wye Valley. I checked the weather forecast on my IPhone which wasn’t good. So Wye it is! After dropping off some gifts to some friends who were away, I set the sat nav to YHA Forest of Dean.
After leaving the motorway and returning to England I found myself following the River Wye winding through wooded hilly countryside. “You have arrived at your destination” the sat nav told me at a clearing in the middle of nowhere! Hmm… I was getting a little concerned as it was nearing 5pm in high season in a very popular part of England. Would I get a bed tonight? (I could always sleep in the car!). I came across a driveway up to what appeared to be a nursing home but no one about, in fact I hadn’t seen a soul for miles! Suddenly an old boy appeared and asked me if I was lost. I explained and he said I was on the wrong side of the river. ( I read on YHA blurb later that this is what sat navs do and you have to put in the village name of Goodrich. Anyway after several miles of winding undulating sometimes steep (with sheer drops) and very rough (I thought I would get a puncture) track, I finally got to my destination. But was there room at the inn? No problem a friendly voice answered through a hatch in the hallway of a large converted house in the most beautiful setting. I booked some dinner for 7 then claimed my bed in the dorm before taking a stroll. Wow this place was heaven and well worth the tortuous access. Just below the house, set in the hillside was the prettiest little church. I did wonder who would ever go to it on such an inaccessible place. I wandered on down to the fast flowing river which was.used by hostellers for canoeing. There were one or two campers here with upturned canoes beside their tents. A pathway had been cut through the undergrowth beside the river, which I followed for 20 minutes or so. It was such a beautiful warm sunny evening and soooo peaceful here with just the sound if the water passing over rocks and the odd twitter of a blackbird. I returned for 7 to be brought a delicious beef stew with broccoli and new potatoes in the garden high up overlooking the valley with the river below. I decided to sketch the church after dinner as this might be the last of the sunshine for a day or two. Returning to the dorm for my sketch pad I met up with one of the only two girls sharing my room, they were on a cycling holiday from north Wales to Stow on the Wold where they were picking up a car to drive home again. We chatted for a bit about hostels and beautiful UK (when you get the good weather!). Then I took myself off to a place in the evening sun where I settled on a low wall in the evening sunlight to draw the church. There was a family with two small children happily kicking a ball to each other nearby and one or two others sitting up on the terrace having their dinner in the last of the evening light.
I went to bed reasonably early after a long day and read my book by torchlight before finally dropping off to sleep.

I woke to a lovely sunny morning again, this is unheard of in Wales!!  No rain forecast til Wednesday.  Judy and I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast chatting and then a coffee in the garden.  I finally left for the Cardiff Museum at midday only to find that it is closed on Mondays.  I was disappointed as I know there are many paintings by old masters to be seen in there.  Oh well perhaps I will go back in the morning.

Instead I went round the City Hall next door which was impressive to say the least and contained plenty of beautiful paintings too.

I then wandered past Cardiff Castle which I thought was rather expensive to get into so continued on to John the Baptist church where they were serving coffee in the upper room (The Hotspot) and then the covered market nearby, selling all manner of fresh food and other interesting items… reminded me very much of our own covered market in Oxford.  I treated myself some little silver stud ear rings.  By this time the parking ticket had expired on my car so I headed out of the city to visit  Castle Coch which I could see up on the mountain from Judy’s kitchen window.  It looked like something out of a fairy tale from the outside and I decided to keep it that way by not venturing in, but instead took myself on the circular walk up through the woods beside it.

After my excercise for the day I set my trusty satnav to Caerphilly Castle and found this magnificent ancient building complete with moat and drawbridge sprawled beside the pretty little town of Caerphilly and what a beautiful display of mauve and pink petunias adorning every railing and hanging planter all through the town.  I spent a leisurely hour or so following the moat right round the castle and then exploring the town.  I just had to buy some Caerphilly cheese although I was told it was no longer made in Caerphilly but in Carnaervon.  I also took the opportunity of buying some Australian Merlot and a bag of gigantuous cherries to take back for Judy.

Time to return as we were going out for a meal with Louise, Judy’s daughter.  But first a glass of wine and some cheese…. we walked down to Louise’s house and she had a spread of canapes waiting for us in her beautiful kitchen before the taxi arrived to whisk us down to a French restaurant in Cardiff Bay.  The three of us had an excellent meal followed by a walk around the “Beach” which I had seen the day before full of excited families.  By contrast it was now quiet and still at 10pm.  Judy and Louise had never seen it and were quite surprised to see deckchairs on a sandy beach where there had once been a wide open space for outdoor concerts, etc.  It was clearly there just for the summer months.  Another lovely evening, thank you both and it was so nice to meet Louise and share her love of art.  She is a very talented artist in glass making.

The first part of my UK Road Trip is a mini one taking me to South Wales and Ross-on-Wye visiting friends.  I hope to take in Tintern Abbey and maybe do a few sketches along the way….

Here is the roadmap of my route which takes in Gloucester, Chepstow, Tintern Abbey, Cardiff and Cardiff Bay, Caerphilly, Monmouth, Garway, Ross-on-Wye, Burford  – 350 miles in all.

Ok, here we go….. I finally set off on a beautiful August morning heading for Gloucester.  I had plenty of time and really didn’t want to use the motorway. The roads were fairly clear and I arrived in Gloucester in good time to have a wander around the newly regenerated dockland area well not that new but still nicely done.  Between the car parking area and the quayside I crossed a walkway over a wetland nature reserve, which was full of bulrushes and ripe blackberries.  After about an hour, taking in a snack and a good walk to stretch my legs and ease my back after being cramped in the car, I headed on down to Chepstow, again avoiding the motorway.  I came upon some pretty towns on the River Severn which I vowed I would stop at and take a look aroud when I had more time: Newham and Blakeney.  I was aiming to get to Tintern Abbey for an afternoon break. The drive down there through the Forest of Dean was delightful.  We live in such a beautiful country when the weather is fine!  I passed the famous Chepstow Racecourse and the ruins of an old castle which I thought I might look around, but my satnav had other ideas and took me away from it up a winding road through a densely wooded area that reminded me of Vancouver Island.  Finally the ruins of the Abbey appeared in the clearing which was Tintern!  Wow, impressive.  I parked the car and spent an hour or so exploring the ruins.  An artist’s delight!After enjoying a welcome ice cream, I set my satnav app for Cardiff Bay.  This actually now took me on some motorway for the last stretch of today’s roadtrip which was fine.  I was delighted by the holiday atmosphere when I walked across from the carpark in the warm late afternoon sunshine to the bustle and music emanating from the “Beach”.  Families were having a wonderful time with all the fun of the seaside.
I walked on down through this noise and excitement to the waterside to look at the boats and then on round to the little Norwegian Church which was now an Arts Centre. Closed now… maybe I will return tomorrow as there is a Dali exhibition on.  As I walked back up to Bar One for a drink I passed through an exhibition of beautifully preserved vintage cars.  A welcome elderflower on ice before getting in touch with Judy who I was staying with this evening.  I have known Judy for many years in Charlbury.  Our Border Collies were brothers and we used to walk them together down by the river.  We also sang in the choir together.  Judy has now come down to Cardiff to be near her family.

A little longer savouring the atmosphere of Cardiff Bay before heading up to Radyr and Bucks Fizz with smoked salmon in the garden before the sun finally went down over Castle Coch.  What a full day!