Around Venice

Church bells replace cowbells… well it is Sunday! There are just so many churches in Venice; I should really find out how many. As I skirted the island in the Vaporetto last night I noticed a skyline full of spires – Oxford has nothing on this!

At last I met Alex, the owner, and he was just as I imagined him, a young good looking Italian (well they all are)… but one with a difference! He has a degree in fine art. He has been telling me how he has taken on this little pension (just 3 bedrooms with two shower rooms to share) and his own private living space and is gradually doing it up and adding his own personal artistic touch to it. I have to say I am delighted with my little room at the top. His Calle dei Pieta is perfectly positioned in a quiter part of the island and yet just a few minutes walk from a main vaporetta point and about five minutes from St Mark’s Square, the tourist hub of Venice.

After my included breakfast of croissant and Cafe latte at a coffee bar just across the road, I set off armed with Alex’s map and helpful hints on what to see and how to get about.

This morning it was warm and dry after the previous day’s storms, so I decided to put on my cut-offs, in fact my summer gear (which I’d put in a canvas bag yesterday leaving everything else at the hostel on the mainland). The next few days didn’t look too clever weatherwise so today was to be painting day if I got the opportunity.

I headed first for St Marks Square and was really there in no time at all. I couldn’t get near the Basilica as there was a long queue to get in, but viewed this magnificent building from outside. The Square itself is pretty impressive with Venetian style buildings on three sides on a very grand scale. I wandered through many little passageways which usually brought you out to either a piazza or a bridge over a canal, but occasionally to canal with no bridge. (I wouldn’t like to go down one of those on a dark night after a rosso or two!) I soon found my way about using the signage and trying to avoid the crowds. I found it was really best to stay clear of the popular sights, then you could see some of the beautiful architecture that was everywhere, although some in rather a dilapitated state, which kind of added to the magic of the place. I remember thinking how clean all the passages were with so many tourists about… absolutely no litter anywhere, nor any sign of dog mess for there were many pooches following their owners about. I walked on to Rialto Bridge. Never seen so many people on a bridge!! It was in fact the main crossing over the Grand Canal which divides the island. I then headed towards Piazza Roma where I sat down with my slice of Marguerita and listened to an Italian busker making quite a good job of some Simon & Garfunkel songs.

Next I paid €7 to see some drawings and real live inventions by Leonardo de Vinci – fascinating. Went into one or two churches, one where there was a service going on and listened to some beautiful chanting.

I then decided to make my way to a quieter part away from the centre and suddenly saw my first artist sitting sketching a view down the canal. He was elderly and when I asked in French if he was on holiday, he said “Every day is a holiday”. We chatted for a while and shared each others sketchbooks. Then I moved on saying I’d be back when he’d finished there because he had a prime painter’s spot! A little later he waved to me that he was leaving now.

I sat in that lovely spot for about an hour, or maybe two as I was enjoying myself so much, I hadn’t realized how numb my bottom was when I got up. I did some quick watery washes, some more detailed water colours and practiced perspective in pencil, which these Venice scenes definitely required. There was a gentle breeze which was welcome in the hot mid day sun so it was extremely pleasant to be sitting there just dabbling with what I love in a magical city.

Towards the middle of the afternoon I began to make my way back through the less crowded parts, although I had to negotiate Rialto Bridge again to get to the right side of the canal. I promised myself a gelato once over the canal. This was a delicious caramel creme. I later passed a colourful fruit stall and was tempted by a slice of water melon. The pigeons gathered round eager to pick up any pips I may discard.

I surprised myself by walking right up to the place where I’d had breakfast that morning, so home and kicking off my sandals was just around the corner. Phew what a full and quite tiring day.

I took a siesta and woke around 8 feeling quite peckish. I really didn’t want to spend a lot as the accommodation here had taken me way over budget. However it was a beautiful warm evening so I decided to take a stroll up in the quieter direction of Castello. It is a lovely time to be out walking. Fewer people about, still quite light with activity on the water. I found a nice little restaurant beside a canal looking out over the lagoon, and ordered a Carbonnara which looked to be one of the cheaper items on their menu only to find that their wine was expensive. Oh well, it was very pleasant sitting there on a warm summer’s evening watching the boats go by.

(pics to follow when I have better internet access)