Maureen's Travel Blog

Well I must fill you in on last night…. I checked into my tipi up in the forest.  It seems I was their first guest of the season, and the ONLY guest.  I had a big tipi, which could sleep probably 8 or 10, all to myself…. not sure at this stage whether this is a good thing or not.  The spot here is absolutely ideallic.  There are Christmas trees all around me with pine cones everywhere.  Carole and her Dad have caravans nearby and the main cooking and dining tipi is a little further away with the horses.

After a brief settling in period and a wander down to the fast flowing glacier river below, we all made our way over to see the horses.  I was introduced to each one, although I’m not sure I’ll remember all their names.  Here I also met Ava who looks after them all and runs the ranch along with Carole’s Dad, who is her partner.  As it began to get dark, we retired to the cooking tipi, where I was amazed to see Renay, Carole’s Dad stoking up the fire of an Aga (or similar) in the middle of the tipi.  We were going to have Racotta (a Swiss dish of potatoes and cheese).  Meanwhile, Carole prepared a ‘Flat’ (a large rectangular pastry covered with fruit – strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, etc and next covered with latticework of pastry to cook in the Aga.  We all sat down and shared of bottle of very nice Italian wine (their local, called Inferne!)  Firey, I saaid to Renay…. ‘Hell’ he replied!  After a most enjoyable evening, which included locally picked and pickled mushrooms, artichoke sauce, hot chillies and other delights, rounded off with Grappa and a delicious coconut liquor…. time for bed!  As we arrived back at the camp in pitch darkness, I suddenly found it a bit scarey going to sleep on my own in that tipi in the forest.  Actually it was ok… a little cold at first in near zero temperatures but my sleeping bag and rug was snuggly warm eventually and I woke at about 6 to the sound of the mountain stream and the birds singing.  (All the afore mentioned really belongs to Monday.)

Just using this opportunity to update the blog over breakfast as Carole has lent me her laptop while she and Renata have gone on an errand somewhere.  Enjoying Expresso and delicious crusty bread for breakfast…. better get stoked up before riding this afternoon.  The weather up here has been kind so far and, although cold at night (there is still snow on the mountains here), when the sun is out it is really quite warm in the day.  So glad I bought that zipper jacket in Como for the mountains though.  Time for another Expresso and then a walk in the sunshine I think…..

Wandering up in the forest behind my tipi I was photographing some alp flowers then heard a bird sound in the tree nearby.  I must be close to a nest or upsetting them in some way, because a pair of large tit-like birds were flitting about making alarm calls less than a metre from me.  I couldn’t make out what they were and only had my mobile to photograph them.  Black heads and white faces… Must check them out.

by the time I returned from my walk Carole and Ronata were back and had laid out some lunch on the decking.  It was a beautiful hot afternoon and we just chilled out for a bit …Ronato in the hammock!

By the middle if the afternoon, we headed off down to the ranch to saddle up for a ride.   Carole and I watched as Ava gave riding lessons to Andre, a local man in a cowboy hat, on handling his horse.  Andre is used to driving horses and not riding.  Eventually we saddled up our horses.  I was to ride Carole’s Ashira, whose birth she had witnessed and first tottering steps.  Ashira was now 12 zears old.  Carole would ride a small Icelandic pony with a shaggy mane and tail.  While Ava and Andre would keep their mounts.  Ava had a 4 year old that she was training and Andree a big heavy black mare.  As I hadn’t ridden since Banff exactly a year ago, I was grateful for some tips and general ingtroduction to the horse in an Enclosure.  Before long, we set off on our preliminary trek and I soon felt at home in the saddle again.

Dinner in the evening was to be a barbecue.  Already Ronata had it lit for our return and Carole set to work preparing corn on the cob, mushrooms, courgettes, Swiss sausages and salad.  The meals are long social affairs here and although we started eating around 6.30, we were still chatting and laughing over shnappes at 9.30!  Shnappes, it would seem is a general term for liqueurs.  These included something very like Baileys called Haselnuss.  My favourite was Coconut Rum, there was Brandy and Whisky and several lethal little numbers whose names I can neither spell nor pronounce!  I find the Swiss language impossible to understand.  It is quite a gentle language and although a mixture of French, Italian and German, I still cannot pick out any recognisable words… must be my brain slowing down… so every so often I start an English conversation and they try their best, bless em… all good fun!

Very nice roast chicken dinner in the hostel last night for 8 euros including a glass of wine. met up with a few more travelers, one Chinese girl with an American accent was a bit full of herself! Reasonable night’s sleep after brief thunder storm. Fabulous had very kindly remembered to bring in his favourite rucksack for me to borrow for my 3 days in the mountains so that I could leave my wheelie in the hostel lockup for my return on Thursday.Here is a view of Menaggio as we leave on the ferry. and Varenna as we arrive.

I met Warren, an Australian, waiting for the ferry to Varenna. He was travelling around Italy before meeting up with his daughter in Scotland. We walked up the hill in pretty Varenna to the train station, where he went in the opposite direction to Milan, while I met up with a German couple going on the same train as me to Tirano.

Although they were from Dusseldorf, they were able to tell me all the best places to visit during my forthcoming visit to Munich…. must make notes, English gardens, tower of St Peter in main square, etc. They got off at the next stop for the scenic walk back. I am now snaking round the lake towards Tirano. It is a public holiday so no ticket offices open so hope all will be well when I get there. These trains are huge but hardly anyone on them. it sounds a bit like a steam train as it chugs along the mountainside in and out of tunnels. Although it started cloudy after a wet night, the sun has just come out. Maybe I didn’t need all these extra clothes for the possible zero conditions in the mountains. I hope the weather stays clear for the panoramic Bernina Express!

That’s good, the conductor has just given me a ticket on the train – 7 euros only for an hour and a half! Also she showed me where the toilet is… all good so far. But she said at Tirano I must go to a different station to get to St Moritz…. Why is it wherever I go, when I try so hard to speak their language, they always reply in English, this makes me feel so inadequate… why do I bother?! Anyway so far it is very easy to get about on public transport.

Now traveling away from the Lake between the mountains. Amongst the forests there are large area of vineyards on the steep slopes as far as the eye can see, making even patterns like green sticks side by side. I can see the snow capped mountains behind.

Arrived at Tirano… now have to make a choice: regular mountain train leaving in 10 minutes or Panoramic leaving in 2 and a half hours. I think probably the regular but will just check with Carole who is picking me up what will suit her best. 25 euros to St Moritz and it will take two and a half hours. Silly me I should have brought a snack lunch.

Wow we go over 126 bridges and as many tunnels…and pass 26 communities. Lots of bells rattling….  We are going higher and higher… So exciting!! Wow and triple wow – the scenery is just awesome. Lots of irrigation going on, logging, fast flowing rivers tumbling over rocks. Very steep incline and much screeching as this train makes its tortuous way up the mountain. Wish the’d turn the heating down… very hot in here but bet its cold outside. Wow a Beautiful blue lake high in the mountains… going to sit back and enjoy for a while…
Through settlements the single railway track runs alongside the road and the driver blows the horn which sounds more like a bird of prey. I think the heating has changed to aircon now, much better! Just wondering if I am in Switzerland or still Italy. Ah my phone now says Swisscom. The buildings have certainly become more Alpine. Wild flowers in abundance up here… pinks, purples, yellows, whites..
Now at snow level…. wow, it is so beautiful up here…. and no people ! Sometimes shear drops far into the distance. This is a roller coaster of a ride sometimes turning sharply as your stomach continues over a deep and huge ravine……. just making brief notes here to research later…..
Lake Palu and glacier – Alp Grum.
2256 metres above sea level Bernina is the highest of Rhatische Bahn stations
We wait for a train coming the opposite way and it looks like a dinky toy against the humongous mountain. Oh oh suddenly dark blue gentian everywhere. Turquoise blue glacier steams all around…. just so beautiful here… and the sun is shining. I am soooo lucky!!! The scenery just takes your breath away.

Carole and her boyfriend, Renato, were there on the platform at St Moritz and showed me a little of the town before we stopped off at Aldi for provisions.  Finally we drove through the valley of Engadin to Chapell Camping where I would be staying.  I am in a dream!!!  I can’t put pics from my camera on here because I left my netbook in the lock up in Menaggio so mobile phone pics will have to suffice for the next 3 days.  (have now been able to borrow Carole’s laptop.) Here are a few to for today of the beautiful blue Gentian growing in abundance all around my tipi, my accommodation for the next 3 nights in the forest, and some views.

Sorry if pics sometimes go in wrong way round or spelling is bad, sometimes I’m just updating from my mobile.

I am just now sitting beside the Lake waiting for my first Espresso! Certainly not expresso timewise but hey, I’m learning that Italians don’t do speed. Why would they, in such a beautiful setting…. I am so enjoying the moment, with the water lapping just beside me, beautiful flowers all around and happy smiley people enjoying a sunny Sunday morning.

Going back… I had the best night’s sleep – 8 hrs from 10 til 6 am! Woken by the sun streaming through the balcony window straight into my eyes.

My espresso has just arrived after about half an hour I think! Maybe it’s called expresso because you down it in one mouthful – it’s a tiny cup and only half full… but although bitter, is quite delicious!

Where was I……. the hostel, which is run by a group of previous backpackers, served an excellent continental breakfast. I sat outside on the terrace in the hot sun and soon felt a painting coming on. The views from here are absolutely stunning…. I know I shall be using that word a lot….

After a quick watercolour I headed down town with Fiona a Scottish girl staying at the hostel who was heading over to Varenna on the ferry. After saying goodbye I wandered through the little town skirting the lake where there was quite an extensive open air market…. and the most purple of stalls…. yes, lavendar!

Spent most of the day in this delightful little lakeside town sketching, chatting to Italians who liked my work and sampling the occasional gelato… perfect!! I was intrigued by the bells in the church tower which were hung on wheels but were clearly mechanical. There were 5 which rang slowly individually at random for about 10 minutes on the hour and then rang round in perfect sequence. All this is visible from outside.

It is good to have a day just chilling out after such full on traveling and the weather just couldn’t be better!

Good night in quiet dorm.  Up at 6.30 for a shower.  Cereal, cherries, toast and coffee before checkout.  I see Busabout logo on teeshirt of rep outside which is a welcome sight so all good! After a warm introduction by Ronata on board a big comfortable and modern coach, we are leaving Nice behind and heading into the mountains. Daviday is our Italian driver. My only concern at this point is that I wish I’d brought my fleece for St Moritz. According to my iPhone app it has now dropped to minus 2 there with snow! First pit stop 9.30 brioche Nuttello and a capuchino. Will wait a bit for my first Italian espresso! I had just got comfortable with French language and now completely thrown having to communicate in Italian! The scenery so far has been beautiful along the French Riviera – through tunnels, over viaducts, to negotiate the very hilly terrain. As we passed over Monaco, one of my fellow travellers told me that to live in Monaco it costs a million euros just to apply! Even Michael Jackson was rejected!

There is a bit of drizzle in the air now as we get back on the bus ad head inland. We’re offered a movie for the next hour and a half til lunch stop. Think I will have a snooze…..

We seem to be heading for Milan and the countryside has become fairly flat with purple mountains in the distance.  Just crossed the River Poe, apparently the largest and longest in Italy. Our Italian driver has just broken into song!  We are passing through the Lombardy – tobacco and prosecco area… very flat.  Lunch in a large motorway cafe was good. Delicious Cappiccio pizza with artichokes, olives and ham… a huge slice so have kept some in the box for this evening with the rest of my cherries.

The city of Como is much bigger than I imagined… and the Lake is 400 metres deep, created in the ice age. There is a beautiful Cathedral,  I wonder if I’ll have time to see that. Yes, we left our bags at Como Hostel, to do some exploring before getting our C10 bus to Menaggio.  Dominique, from Melbourne, had booked into the same hostel so we hung out together for the afternoon. First we had a look at the huge cathedral, very elaborate in true Italian stle.  Then wandered down to the lakeside in the warm sunshine.  Of course we treated ourselves to a gelato – bellissimo I said as I tasted it but was corrected… bonissimo!  The scenery here really is awesome.  I have been worrying so much about the zero temperatures in St Moritiz, the next leg of my journey, that I decided to search around Como for a fleece of sorts.  At last I found a zip up jacket that I think will fit the bill so got it off my mind! When Dominique and I finally caught the bus to Menaggio, an utterly sceneic journey round Lake Como.  It was a little walk up a hill but the views from our dorms were amazing across the Lake.  A glass of wine is definitely called for at this stage.  I then asked the owner about getting up to St Moritz.  His help went far beyond the call of duty…. these Italians are amazingly helpful. A glass of good Italian red to round off the day…. followed by another. There is a barbecue going on here tonight but I am just too tired to eat, will finish off my pizza from lunchtime and have an early night.

At last a reasonable night’s sleep! I had to change my booking for this evening as luckily I checked with reception that Busabout was going to pick up outside and not some 30k away! True to form, the pickup is at a hostel with the same name half an hour away near the beach, and not the one recommended!

I spent yesterday evening in the bar over an apple juice with Olivia hearing all about her day in Antibes and her chef job possibilities. She meanwhile was devouring the hostel’s 8 euros steak and chips. I really didn’t need any more to eat after my delicious 3- course meal in Vence.

This morning I will pack up, get the hostel shuttle to the tram station, then tram down to the centre to book in to the Beach hostel. I then plan to join a walking tour of the area which takes in a castle and the flower market. Maybe Matise Musée later today….
Just writing notes now as time could be limited later and who knows what the Internet will be like. Basically so far it is rubbish in France, the Internet that is! I have to stand by reception to get any sort of wifi signal, and pictures are out of the question!

Arrived at Gallery Lafayette by tram – very easy, and Beach hostel is just nearby. Left bags then went in search of new hat as lost my favourite travelling hat yesterday! I can’t believe I just spent 29 euros on a sun hat!! All of a day’s allowance!

Just completed the walking tour of Nice, some history, the flower market (where I bought Socco – local speciality crepe with chick peas – delicious.   Also bought cherries for breakfast as blueberries very expensive here).  Next a serious hike up to the non-existent castle.  It certainly took me some effort to get to the top, while the younger members of our small group thought nothing of the climb.  Well worth it though – the views of the whole coast of Nice and the city are spectacular!  I chatted to most members of the group.  Our guide was Finnish and it was her first job in France before taking her finals in tourism, then she hopes to go to New Zealand to work…. the world is her oyster I thought.  After a picnic at the top together, we descended and dispersed.  I had decided to make the 20 minute bus ride to Eze as we were on that side of town.  The transport system in Nice is so easy – up to 75 minutes anywhere for a euro 50!

The bus ride up to Eze was amazing.  It followed the coastline, getting higher and higher.  Fortunately the weather continues to be glorious so the sea was a deep cobalt blue, which looked stunning as a backcloth with terracotta roofs dotted about below.

Eze is another of those picturesque little villages built on a steep hill with many narrow paths and steps reaching upwards.  Every few steps revealed a little artist’s gallery tucked in the crevices.  I stopped to chat to one of the artists who was busy with a small oil painting of one of the streets.  I guessed she had painted it many times.  Further up the path seemed to divide and my indecision must have been apparent as a young man offered me directions.  He then told me he was planning to have a coffee in this rather posh looking restaurant but was unsure if the’d let him in just for coffee.  Anyway, to cut a long story short, he invited me to join him and we spent a very pleasant hour or so on the terrace of probably the most expensive bijou restaurant in Eze!  Paul was from The Czech Republic and  had a job ‘babysitting’ in Grasse, a small village inland from Nice.  He wanted to be a carpenter… anyway I won’t fill you in with all the details but we spent a very pleasant time chatting about art and travels… as you do.

I left him finally to complete my tour of Eze including the peaceful little chapel.  The views all around from the Exotic Garden at the top were breath-taking.

I returned on the no 82 bus and walked back from Metropolis to Mencine and the hostel to check in.  A thirteen bed dorm.  This was all they had left when I booked the change the night before, but actually it looks fine, just 6 bunks in each alcove so quite cosy… all girls, 2 of them Canadian.  They reminded me very much of Jocelyn and Stacey who stayed in Charlbury earlier this year.

I must now go and find a bite to eat and maybe put up some pics I took today later…

At last found a way to resize pics so they upload faster.  Just had a nice chicken brioche from classy takeaway in the square…. beats the burgers and chips in the hostel!  Now off to bed ready for Como tomorrow!

By bedtime last night there were five of us girls in the room 2 from Chili who were friends, one from New Zealand, one from Russia and me – UK!  Very comfortable bed in room with en suite so lucky for first night at least, although not sure who I will be sharing with tonight as some of them may be moving on.  Here is a view of the Exupery Gardens Hostel.

The hostel offers a good continental breakfast.   I was picked up by my brother at 10 in his beautiful new BMW sports car as arranged.  Martin lives near Nice and offered to take me to Vence and nearby villages today and it was a thrill to be traveling in style on such a beautiful sunny day.  We went first to the village of Vence St Paul, very pretty narrow steep cobbled streets with art galleries in abundance.  We stopped for coffee in one of these quaint little streets in the by now hot sunshine.  We then moved on to Vence where we wiled away a few hours over a delicious lunch in a street café and put away a carafe or so of vin rouge!  Then we walked some distance in search of the Matisse Chapel.  Unfortunately when we finally arrived we found it to be closed.  I should have thought this would be the case as it was a French Bank Holiday ah c’est la vie.  I was very disappointed but had spent a very special day en Provence with my brother.

Transport to Gatwick via train and airline bus all went according to plan and fairly uneventful in the continuing rain.  You wanted an early update Dot but there is little to say as yet. I forgot how huge and busy this airport is – a far cry from quiet little Southampton airport just a few weeks ago!  113 boarding gates – crazy!!  An hour and a half before take off to Nice… not just rain to look forward to there but thunder and lightening!  Hey ho I will just relax and start living the moment with my coffee and duck wrap!  Who knows what lies ahead……

Easy flight with easy jet! The plane was full of excited French teenagers probably returning home after a holiday weekend in London. I sat next to a young French couple who knew little English but felt too tired to start trying to engage in French and promptly fell asleep – will leave that til I get there.

Got the shuttle bus to terminal 1 as suggested in hostel instructions. Then no 23 to Place St Maurice. ’twas a long bus ride – about an hour but a great opportunity to try out my French on the locals. And there was the sea at last. I had not seen that stretch of coast since I was 18, I told the person next to me on the bus. Then we chatted about L’eglise Matisse en Vence et le temps. YES I can do this!

But where is my shuttle bus to the hostel? The mobile Pizza man very kindly phoned them an hour ago and they said ’10 minutes’. In that time he has cooked me a delicious Margurite and I have eaten it and wished several customers ‘bon appetit’ in the meantime and also had plenty of time to write up today’s events. I have just called again on the very kind Pizza man’s mobile…. just another 10 mins – there is a big party arriving. It is now a quarter to eight…. an hour later of course, but I still feel very tired.
I’m now getting just a bit fed up with watching mad French drivers careering round this square, blasting their horns when motorists won’t move quick enough at the lights…. and the very nice pizza man has sold an awful lot of pizzas!!

At last a young man lifts my bag and beckons me to the Toyota minibus I have been keenly looking out for for what seems like an eternity. Full of apologies, I am driven a very short way but up an exceedingly steep hill to the Exupery Gardens Hostel. I won’t go into too much detail here but after manhandling my rather heavy bag up 2 flights of stairs, I opened room 215 to meet Tiga, from Chili. She and soon Gloria, were to be my room mates tonight. After a brief introduction and preparing of beds, together we made our way down to the terrace bar. A quietly shaded area where we spent a pleasant evening with a beer. Tiga, a beautiful 27 year old with Italian looks from her grandmother, was an agricultural engineer no less and was traveling around Europe – unbelievable!! Gloria from New Zealand was in Nice to find a job. She had just completed a course as a chef in Auckland and wanted to work on the boats in Antibes. We were also joined by two others, an Irish man from Downpatrick who had a degree in media studies and had come to Nice to completely change the direction he was going with his life. The other was an older lady from Melbourne, who was a seasoned traveler and we shared experiences til bedtime.

I have now decided to leave out Ancona completely, sorry Ancona…. will miss the Adriatic I know and an interesting city (according to the reviews)…. but I just wasn’t giving myself long enough in Venice. Five days should give me plenty of time to acquaint myself with the all those alleyways and bridges, gondolas, vaporettas and cornettos!! ‘Twil be a long bus ride to Rome though…..

Anyway, in the meantime, I look forward to Provence on Thursday, where my brother, who lives near Nice plans to show me some local French villages. Here’s a taster if it’s sunny but the forecast is thunder storms  images of Provence  I didn’t realise there was so much lavendar!

Have caught up with Dot at last…. the adventure is really coming alive now! Dot and I will be meeting in Rome. We have lots of exciting plans for this great city but more of that when the time comes. Dot has just told me that she’s only booked an Italian Farmhouse Cooking Course for herself!!! ….in Chianti, just south of Florence for the period before we meet up again in La Spezia. Another “must-do” to tick off her list, she said. She is such an adventurer and this is why we get on so well!  Here is the link to whet your appetites: http://www.toscanamia.net/en/cooking-classes/chianti/packages/farmhouse/3-days-cooking-class-in-farmhouse/

Come on Marie, what have we got planned for Florence?

Now that Artweeks is over, I can concentrate on the finer details of my forthcoming European Adventure. Insurance sorted (just in case I fall off a horse….it happens!).   A few last minute essentials to pack like a wind-up torch and european plug. I wonder if plugs are different in all the EU countries or just UK. Now waiting to hear from Dot this evening……