Maureen's Travel Blog

The usual coffee and croissant before Marie and I did a tour of Florence.  This posting will be mainly images and not necessarily in the right order…..

First stop was to be the Cathedral.   We thought we’d like to go up into the Dome but on arrival you should have seen the queue…. all round the cathedral and half way down a street, all standing in the hot sun! …..I don’t think so.  We looked at the Campanile next to it which had no queue but apparently a spectacular view from the top far higher than the cathedral dome…. but 414 steps in 32 degree temperatures – no way!

Orsanmichel was our next port of call as we walked round Florence…. a quieter city in comparison to Rome and much easier to get around.  Orsanmichel had originally been a market place and was turned into a church.  Upstairs were giant sculptures which has been brought in from outside and put on view in a museum.  The next floor was a viewing floor from which you could see the whole city – possibly a better option for us than the Cathedral Dome as it meant we didn’t have to queue.

We then moved on to the Town Hall and Palace Veccio, where I for one was on overload with art, scrulpture, design and embellishment on walls, ceilings, floors and anywhere else that could be found for artwork. 
This culminated rather weirdly in several exceedingly ornate rooms containing an exhibition by Jackson Pollock of drawings based on Michaelangelo’s sculptures.  I must say I hadn’t seen any of Pollock’s drawings before, only paint splats, which he is famous for, and was most impressed.  Although I do love his splats and colour too!

We then walked alongside the river a bit til we came to a very suitable place for lunch.  Having chosen our pizza (for there were many to choose from) and our ice cold beer, we headed for a table outside as we Brits would.  No, it was way too hot, we turned around and sat in the cool of a fan and had the room pretty much to ourselves as the tourists roasted outside.

Energised by our lunch break we set off across the river via Pont Vecchio which was lined on both sides with mainly little jewellery stores, where you could buy a ring for two and half thousand euros!  We pointed out a very good Diana engagement ring lookalike!

Marie was then taken by the work of an artist Carmine who worked in miniature and sepia colours.  She chatted to him and bought a small painting of a scene depicting the Cathedral.

On the other side of the bridge, we made our way towards the Bobali Gardens.

The heat was so intense we lay down in the shade for a bit once inside.

The gardens were high up and once at the top, we had amazing views of the city and of the Tuscany countryside all around.  We probably spent an hour or so there just relaxing and enjoying the peace away from people and traffic.  Eventually a gelato beckoned.  We had promised ourselves this treat on the way back.  So many flavours to choose from…. Marie had melon and I thought I would try yoghurt flavour which had been recommended to me.  I think I preferred the taste of Marie’s melon.

We crossed back over the river by a different bridge so that we could photograph Pont Vecchio.  The River Arno looked stunning in the evening light but the temperatures were as high as ever and the stone bridge reflected the heat.  We sat for a while in a piazza before returning to our hostel for a cool shower and rest.

We dressed for dinner and decided to splash out a bit.  The restaurant Trattiora da Garibardi fitted the bill and we both ordered the most delicious seafood dishes and a bottle of Toscori Vinocori. 

Wall to wall sunshine!  Quick coffee and croissant with Dot.  She related to me her experiences last night with her Nepalese family.  “They took me to that special mountain – it was amazing!”  I’m so glad she was able to do that and to enjoy an Italian meal with the locals.  It makes all the difference.

Back on the bus with Kerri, the guide, and George, the Portuguese  driver.   I sit with Dom as there are no free seats left.  Good to catch up with her Rome experiences.

We are now heading into the hills of Tuscany.  I imagine Marie is by now heading up the M40 to Birmingham.

I am now at Orvietto.  The bus parked up then we took a vernicular to the hilltop city.  This is where I say goodbye to Dom who is staying a couple of nights here.  I was in Orvietto some 8 years ago with my cousin and her family from Ireland.  I remembered the cobbled streets and the unusual striped cathedral so well.  Here they make some of the most delicious wine and I often buy it in Waitrose at home.  While at the cathedral there was a huge religious festival happening with families through the generations represented in different colours as they marched throughout the town and right through the Cathedral.  Mass was even broadcast throughout the town – amazing and so colourful.

While waiting for the bus I got chatting to Mike and Elizabeth from Melbourne, who are basically doing what I am and enjoying their health traveling the world.  We are now back on the road….. next  stop Siena!

Good soppy love story movie based in Tuscany – what could be better!  Kerri  told us all on the bus about a walking tour this evening `ending in a full four course Italian meal with wine.  However, it’s only for Busabout people so I asked her if there was maybe a wine tasting tour tomorrow,  She said she would check it out.

Well the Siena stop was a disappointment.  I was hoping to see a bit of the town but it was just a pit stop at the hostel for changeover and we didn’t get anywhere near the town and the beautiful cathedral and the high walls Kerri described.  Apparently the very first bank in the world was here in Siena and that’s why they were very rich and built a cathedral.  However they ran out of money and the cathedral never got finished.  I certainly hope to come back here perhaps on a wine tasting tour tomorrow and have a good look at the old town.

All signs now point to Firenze!  Journey fairly uneventful, plenty of hilltop towns and Cyprus trees.  We expect to arrive on time, around 3.30.  In fact we arrived about 4 as there was a delay getting the permission for the bus to enter the city.  It also took a good half an hour to check in…. always a delay with so many backpackers.  Marie arrived very soon after and before very long we were walking the cobbled streets of Florence in the warm evening sunshine.  I found a nice brown leather purse to replace the one that was stolen in Rome in a leather street market.  Marie seemed impressed by my haggling but I only got 3 euros off it!  
We stopped in a small cafe nearby for our first spritz in Florence.  That went down so well as we were by now quite parched after a day’s traveling (from Banbury and from Rome!)  We then walked further to the centre of the city and were suddenly in awe of the incredible sight before us which was the Cathedral.  I just loved the colours of jade green and dusky pink on white with ornate embellishments everywhere you looked.  It is just about the biggest cathedral I have ever seen and with so many angles to it.  Unfortunately it was closed this evening but we will be back tomorrow.  We liked the look of the menu outside a small restaurant nearby and we didn’t argue with the waiter as he encouraged us to sit down.  By this time we were very hungry. Although sitting under a gazebo outside, the air-conditioning was puffing out to keep us cool….. crazy!  We enjoyed a delicious meal of lasagna for Marie and pork for me with a large glass each of vino rosso.  Afterwards we gently sauntered back to our hostel with the sound of screaming swifts overhead.

Lazy day….soooo hot, we didn’t feel like braving the crowds, traffic and heat of Rome today.  We enjoyed a nice coffee and croissant on the decking outside our bungalow and just chatted and updated stuff.  Before we knew it hunger pangs told us it was time for some lunch.  Dot popped down to the supermarket and bought ingredients for a picnic, a lovely antipasti style lunch with wine.  This included Emmental cheese, salami, mixed salad, the tastiest Italian tomatoes ever and some bread rolls, followed by grapes and washed down with a nice vino blanca.  We spent the next couple of hours putting the worlds to rights in the warm sunshine until it was just too hot to sit out any more and time for a siesta, true Italian style…. later time for a swim.

The pool was so inviting and not too busy with two small jacuzzis similar to the hostel in Venice.  We wallowed in the jacauzzi and chatted to someone from Cumbria who was very interested in our travels.  After a while Dot left to meet up with one of her Nepal contacts, who had adopted one of the Nepalese children and is raising her in Italy.  I remained by the pool for a while reading in the hot sun, slapping on the sun block. Eventually I returned for a shower and to prepare to leave in the morning, another early start at 8 for Busabout.

Dot and I had decided to lie in and just relax in the morning.  I took the opportunity of putting up a couple more blog posts as I have got so behind.  Around midday we took the shuttle bus into the city and walked to St Peter’s Square and who should tap me on the shoulder but Dom…. in the whole of Rome, she should notice my silly hat! The three of us walked together for a bit and then Dot and I got on the Hop On Hop Off City bus to see the sights.  It was a very hot day and we seemed to be constantly sitting in traffic hams.  We were very disappointed to find that most of the main interesting pieces of ancient architecture were clad in scaffolding, including the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum.  Finding the Trevi Fountain with a fence around it and no water, we left in disgust and consoled ourselves with a light lunch of pizza and beer in one of those little side street restaurants.  On completion of the City Bus tour, we decided to go in search of some little back street piazzas and came across one full of Italian footie fans just settled to watch the match between Italy and Costa Rica on the outside screen (there was a screen inside too!)  The atmosphere was so special we decided to join them and bought ourselves a Spritz each.  The Italians are very passionate about their football so it was as entertaining for us to watch them as they watched their favourite team playing on the big screen….. sadly they lost but I think there may be another opportunity for them when I am in Florence.

Later as it became cooler and more comfortable, we walked across the River Tiber towards Spanish Steps.  It was so pleasant just keeping to the cobbled pedestrian areas and piazzas.  We sat down every so often beside a fountain or on a stone bench in a square and then finally on the flight of Spanish steps, before heading towards the Metro to take us back to Plus Roma.

NOTE: Beware, don’t be jostled on the Metro in Rome, or for that matter on any city transport….. keep your valuables close to you!

Good hearty English breakfast plus continental!  As I drank my juice, I watched the cook in the kitchen crack about two dozen eggs with such skill!  Scrambled eggs on toast, sausages, bacon…. fruit juice, toast and honey, pineapple and melon chunks and cappuccino.  I also took an apple for the road.  Well I did need to get my 6.50’s worth!

Back on the road with George the driver and Matt the guide.  I think he’s Aussie…. about 10 hours in the bus today.  Just had a loo/coffee break somewhere near Bologna.  And who should I find queuing for coffee with me but Amanda and Michael from that stormy Saturday night.  It was good to see them back on Busabout again.   They had found their way to Lido but was a far more tortuous journey than mine, and quite a long way on foot.  Hope to catch up with them later.  This posting will be mainly in note form with a few places names that I can research later so that I can see the route our journey took.

Fields full of sunflowers on either side of the road and many are in full bloom already, big yellow faces all looking in one direction… yeah, at the sun.  Also many fruit tree crops and acres of maize.  Now headed to Ancona for lunch break where I will catch up with Dom again.  She decided on a couple of nights in Ancona to break the journey to Rome.

Been asleep – grey skies as we make our way towards Ancona.  I see the Adriatic Sea to my left.  Lunch stop which I shard with Amanda and Michael, who are getting off at Ancona to take the overnight ferry to Croatia.  Ate far too much but the Mozzerella salad looked so good and I haven’t eaten much green stuff for a while.  Also ate a nice fresh fruit salad so all good….. back on the road to Ancona. Ancona is said to be in one of the poorer areas of Italy and Matt, our guide, certainly didn’t give much to commend it, so probably the right decision to leave it out of my itinerary in favour of an extra couple of days in Venice.  Passed roadsign to Pesaro…. just noticed road sign to Fabriano.  Is this wher the great hot-pressed watercolour paper comes from I wonder. Well we stopped for about half an hour in Ancona…. waved goodbye to storm couple, looked out for Dom getting on but she must be sitting at the back somewhere (unless she’s changed her mind and gone across to Croatia).

Still following the coast after an hour.  GPS says Danderto del Tronto.  The skies have cleared and is now a beautiful sunny afternoon.  Now Ascoli Pisino…. 20 minutes later leaving the freeway through toll and the coast towards Teramo.  Going through a bit of rain now  Frequent signage now to L’Aquila Roma.  Onto another freeway, the skies are very black ahead.  Now much more hilly with many tunnels.  Ooh a huge snow capped mountain has appeared out of the cloud.  That was a very long tunnel – did we go through the mountain?

Last service break – driver needs half an hour out of every two hours driving.  All these breaks however mean too much spending…. I confined myself this time to a bag of m&ms (getting a thing for them) and a bottle of water,

Nasty accident on the freeway.  Bits of metal on fire and guys trying to pull mangled wreckage from the central reservation railings.

5.15 now and it’s raining really heavily.  It felt quite cold at the last service station.  Ok another serious storm – forked lightning in the black clouds on the mountains.  I wonder what it’s like in Rome…. way to go yet…  Hilarious movie on the bus starring Jennifer Enniston…. about a pretend family set up smuggling drugs across border from south America.

Arrived at Plus Roma Hostel in good time at 6.15 and met Dot half way up steps to cabin.  Aah finally arrived…. she was just on her way to meet me from the bus and has a bottle of Italian red and nibbles all ready on the decking outside and we relax and catch up.

Comfortable night in this little twin cabin.
 I noticed a bunk pulls down for a third if required.  I am at a reasonably quiet end of the site and am away from the restaurant that turns into a nightclub later in the evening.  This little guy was outside my cabin this morning.

Coffee and croissant for breakfast 2.50 euros here which I thught was a bit steep for a hostel.  While buying I saw one of the guys on the bus from Wildshonau.  We chatted briefly about the wonders of Venice, then I tried to get on the net.  This was the time I had set aside to update the blog but the WiFi here was having none of it.

I spent a fairly lazy day here sorting my stuff, my washing and my finances.  In the afternoon time for a swim in the almost Olympic size pool.  After which I almost turned prunelike spending too long in the jacuzzi.  Afterwards I used the pool showers to wash my hair as there didn’t seem to be hot water in my cabin…. no big deal.

Caught up with Dot on line who is now on her way to the airport! Will see her in Rome tomorrow evening.  Also caught up with Marie who is busy planning our time in Florence….. soooo exciting!!!

Thought I would try out the hostel restaurant this evening.  It looks a bt posh!  All dressed up with long skirt…. and why not. First to the bar for a cocktail.  It arrives purple and is caed a Tingle!  Then I sit down outside where tables are all set for dinner and try and choose a table out of the still very hot sun.  The menu looks delicious and varied.  A ricotta and spinach cannelloni fits the bill nicely for my last night in Venice.

Just an appenditure  about machines…. the slot variety!        I never did have much confidence in them.  This morning I needed euro coins for the washing machine.  I put a 20 euro note into a change giving machine… it whirred a bit, then I pressed the button…. NOTHING! I’m sure the receptonist didn’t believe me as she handed over 20 coins which the machine happily hrew up for her when she took a note from the till to test it.    Then this evening after dinner on the way back to my cabin, I just fancied some m&ms…. far cheaper than a fancy Italian sweet!  I put in my euro getting rid of some small change…. nothing when I pressed the number of the product. So I pressed the reject button.  You know what? It gave me some German coin and wouldn’t accept it back.  That is not the end of it,  I was really looking forward to those m&ms by now.  I tried again using a single euro.  You know what…. the m&ms did a bit of a slide and a tip, and then stuck fast!  I banged the machine hard to no avail…. can you hear my choice words?  So I started marching over to the receptionist, then stopped.  No, I can’t whinge to her about her stupid machines again.  I thought if I put anoother euro in I will get two packets, the send dislodging the first – BINGO!  I felt a sense of achievement when in fact I’d lost out by gaining a krona losing a euro and getting 2 bags instead of one…. but they were worth it!  Small-fry in the scheme of things I know, but just saying……

I thought I’d booked a private single room but shared it last night, and possibly the night before, going by the evidence on arm and face. But last night I heard the high-pitched buzzing round my ear. I had been warned about mozzies in Venice although I thought it rather early in the season. However I did buy some cure rather than preventative treatment, which I wiped over my face neck and arms during the night, and mummified the rest of my body in Alex’s clean linen sheet til morning.

The sun beamed through my open shutters this morning and I felt a pang of sadness to be leaving my little room in the terracotta roof somewhere in Venice today. After croissant and latte (still can’t quite take to espresso this early) I said my farewells to Alex. He is so kind and offered to let me hang on to my key and leave my bags for the day as he had no one in my room tonight. I wish I’d known that as I tried through Hostelworld to add this date but the system said he was full. He said next time contact him direct for a reduced price. I said I would certainly recommend him and would maybe be back myself.

There were two boats to Burano. One in a few minutes via Saborina ( although I only knew that because of my map printout; the other direct to Burano in half an hour. I decided on the scenic route which also went via Lido and some other islands. It also had an open deck and was devoid of people! It was refreshing crossing the lagoon on deck in the cool breeze.

Finally arriving at Burano after about an hour and ten minutes, I just could not believe my eyes. Every little house (and they were all very similar) was painted a different colour and really bright colours. I felt a song coming on “There were pink ones, there were green ones, and blue ones and yellow ones, and they were all made out of ticky tacky and they all looked just the same.”

I found myself a nice spot in the Piazza and ordered a Spritz and hot dog as it was by now around lunch time. It was very pleasant sitting there in the sunshine.

Do you know what this tree flower is Leigh?  There were swallows swooping in and out underneath an archway feeding their young.  As I walked on round this sleepy little island I became increasingly aware of what a thriving industry lace- making had been here. In fact they seemed to be totally reliant on tourism as was most of Venice. I went into the lace museum and watched a movie in the cool of aircon about its history. By the time I hit the hot sun again, boatloads had arrived and what was a sleepy little town was now athrong with Americans and Chinese…. oh those Americans are so loud! I think I arrived just at the right time and was now ready to leave. I waited a few minutes for the no 14 line, which will take me to Ple Roma via Nova around the top of Venice so I will have covered all routes pretty much. I have to say this boat ticket is extremely good value! I still have a day left which I probably won’t use now and could pass to Dom if I see her.

I couldn’t see the campsite shuttle anywhere so caught the number 6 bus as originally on that stormy Saturday night then had to walk the last k in the heat. I was therefore very pleased to see that my twin cabin had pretty much everything I needed including en suite and air conditioning, nice laundered white linen sheets and towel. I have booked so much accommodation on this trip I couldn’t remember exactly what I was getting here. The Camping Jolly seems a well run site with swimming pool, laundry, supermarket, restaurant and bar.

I now have all my washing done ready for Rome and Florence. The only problem is their Internet is down at the moment but hope to get a few blog postings up tomorrow. I plan to have a quiet day by the pool with a book before I take on two more major cities!

I wake to one of my shutters banging… a little cooler and cloudy as I look out, but am cheered as I notice in the little terracotta tiled window in the roof opposite, a large jar containing artists brushes. So I’m imagining an artist’s studio in the roof like mine….

Anyway, today I have just enjoyed my cafe latte and pain au chocolat for breakfast and now plan to buy a 3-day Vaporetto ticket, which I really should have done on that dark stormy night when I arrived. T’would’ve saved me a further 7 euros, Alex advised me. Actually no, when I went to buy it, it was €25 for three days. That will include my boat trip back to Piazza Roma to get the Camping Jolly Shuttle. If I’d bought it on Saturday it would not have lasted for the return journey unless I’d paid more for an extra day. Any way that is just some useful info for those of you visiting Venice!

My Vaporetto pass has definitely been good value today as I used it to get to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection first of all. I baulked a bit at the €16 to get in, but in fact it was well worth it. Firstly there was her own private collection of modern art which included works by Pollock, Picassi, Miro, Kadinsky, Dhali, Mondrian, Warhol, many others from that era. What a fantastic collection! These were exhibited in Peggy Guggenheim’s house which was left for exhibition purposes by the Guggenheim Trust after her death. In the garden, there are beautiful sculptures including some by Henry Moore. Besides these was a further exhibition entitled ‘Mannerism and Surrealism’. This subject matter doesn’t really appeal to me. Although the colours and detail of the pieces were quite extraordinary and were enhanced by an excellent exhibition space. The rooms were carpeted and painted in dark colours, each room different but with very good lighting on the works.

I then decided to take a ride on a gondola (as you do in Venice). There was a point nearby (one of 5), where you can cross the Grand Canal for only €2. I didn’t plan to pay the exhorbitant prices they were charging elsewhere as I had neither romantic lover nor cornetto!!

On the other side I looked around a couple more churches, including the Church of St Samuel… all incredibly ornate and with many altars. There was a basilica which looked similar in design to St Paul’s Cathedral and had six altars around the outside beneath the dome.

A welcome slice of pizza for lunch, then I thought it would be good to put the Vaporetto map I had printed to the test. Firstly by traveling up the whole length of the Grand Canal. I wasn’t sure where the line I was on was going next, but stayed on to find out and just followed the Map. Each line is colour coded and numbered according to its destination. It’s very easy really. I ended up going all the way to Tronchetto where I had began on my first day, then all the way round to Zaccarini, my guest house terminal, stopping at some Islands along the way. When I got back to the home terminal, I took a different line to the island of Murano, which is famous for it’s glassware and glass blowing factory.

It was again a beautiful afternoon to be exploring the much quieter Viennese island of Murano. As we approached the island, we were again presented with a very large piece of beautiful architecture. i took the time to look around yet another church and it will certainly be remembered for it’s incredible mosaic floors.

Most of the area of Murano I had time to see was taken up with either the production or sale of the most exquisite coloured glass – everything from ear rings to chandeliers!

During the return journey which took about half an hour I remembered marvelling to myself on the ease of getting around Venice. More fool me!! I arrived at the now familiar terminal Zaccarini at around 6pm knowing my guest house was just a few minutes walk up one or two alleyways. Two hours later I finally flopped on the bed! I know it’s near here somewhere’, I said to an Italian couple sitting next to me in exasperation, as I sipped a Spritz to calm myself. My GPS had been taking me in circles as it wasn’t updating my position quickly enough. I should have just stuck to my good human antennae system. But visitors to Venice, don’t be fooled that you know the way… all pathways lead to a piazza or a canal, all similar but different!!

Church bells replace cowbells… well it is Sunday! There are just so many churches in Venice; I should really find out how many. As I skirted the island in the Vaporetto last night I noticed a skyline full of spires – Oxford has nothing on this!

At last I met Alex, the owner, and he was just as I imagined him, a young good looking Italian (well they all are)… but one with a difference! He has a degree in fine art. He has been telling me how he has taken on this little pension (just 3 bedrooms with two shower rooms to share) and his own private living space and is gradually doing it up and adding his own personal artistic touch to it. I have to say I am delighted with my little room at the top. His Calle dei Pieta is perfectly positioned in a quiter part of the island and yet just a few minutes walk from a main vaporetta point and about five minutes from St Mark’s Square, the tourist hub of Venice.

After my included breakfast of croissant and Cafe latte at a coffee bar just across the road, I set off armed with Alex’s map and helpful hints on what to see and how to get about.

This morning it was warm and dry after the previous day’s storms, so I decided to put on my cut-offs, in fact my summer gear (which I’d put in a canvas bag yesterday leaving everything else at the hostel on the mainland). The next few days didn’t look too clever weatherwise so today was to be painting day if I got the opportunity.

I headed first for St Marks Square and was really there in no time at all. I couldn’t get near the Basilica as there was a long queue to get in, but viewed this magnificent building from outside. The Square itself is pretty impressive with Venetian style buildings on three sides on a very grand scale. I wandered through many little passageways which usually brought you out to either a piazza or a bridge over a canal, but occasionally to canal with no bridge. (I wouldn’t like to go down one of those on a dark night after a rosso or two!) I soon found my way about using the signage and trying to avoid the crowds. I found it was really best to stay clear of the popular sights, then you could see some of the beautiful architecture that was everywhere, although some in rather a dilapitated state, which kind of added to the magic of the place. I remember thinking how clean all the passages were with so many tourists about… absolutely no litter anywhere, nor any sign of dog mess for there were many pooches following their owners about. I walked on to Rialto Bridge. Never seen so many people on a bridge!! It was in fact the main crossing over the Grand Canal which divides the island. I then headed towards Piazza Roma where I sat down with my slice of Marguerita and listened to an Italian busker making quite a good job of some Simon & Garfunkel songs.

Next I paid €7 to see some drawings and real live inventions by Leonardo de Vinci – fascinating. Went into one or two churches, one where there was a service going on and listened to some beautiful chanting.

I then decided to make my way to a quieter part away from the centre and suddenly saw my first artist sitting sketching a view down the canal. He was elderly and when I asked in French if he was on holiday, he said “Every day is a holiday”. We chatted for a while and shared each others sketchbooks. Then I moved on saying I’d be back when he’d finished there because he had a prime painter’s spot! A little later he waved to me that he was leaving now.

I sat in that lovely spot for about an hour, or maybe two as I was enjoying myself so much, I hadn’t realized how numb my bottom was when I got up. I did some quick watery washes, some more detailed water colours and practiced perspective in pencil, which these Venice scenes definitely required. There was a gentle breeze which was welcome in the hot mid day sun so it was extremely pleasant to be sitting there just dabbling with what I love in a magical city.

Towards the middle of the afternoon I began to make my way back through the less crowded parts, although I had to negotiate Rialto Bridge again to get to the right side of the canal. I promised myself a gelato once over the canal. This was a delicious caramel creme. I later passed a colourful fruit stall and was tempted by a slice of water melon. The pigeons gathered round eager to pick up any pips I may discard.

I surprised myself by walking right up to the place where I’d had breakfast that morning, so home and kicking off my sandals was just around the corner. Phew what a full and quite tiring day.

I took a siesta and woke around 8 feeling quite peckish. I really didn’t want to spend a lot as the accommodation here had taken me way over budget. However it was a beautiful warm evening so I decided to take a stroll up in the quieter direction of Castello. It is a lovely time to be out walking. Fewer people about, still quite light with activity on the water. I found a nice little restaurant beside a canal looking out over the lagoon, and ordered a Carbonnara which looked to be one of the cheaper items on their menu only to find that their wine was expensive. Oh well, it was very pleasant sitting there on a warm summer’s evening watching the boats go by.

(pics to follow when I have better internet access)

Just woken up from a snooze back on the road to find we’re in a traffic jam on the freeway – hopefully brief. Yes we’re off again. Apsley Ski Lodge was very comfortable and Jimmy the owner was most accommodating. The freeway through Austria is an amazing piece of engineering negotiating deep ravines with humungous continuous viaducts. We seem to be near Innsbruck… Ahh just crossed the border into Italy yay!! I am now in this country for the duration – auf wiedersehen Austria, bonjournau l’Italia. Our guide on this leg of the adventure is Kerri (without an e) from Glasgow and, believe it or not, she is an F1 nut, especially Italian! She has just been filling us in on a bit of the history of Italy, the language and the high carb food – oh dear, there goes my diet! Brief service station stop – prawn sandwich for €1.99 can’t be bad. We have to make up some time for hold ups at the freeway toll. Now beginning to see villages sprouting out of rocky hilltops and acres if vineyards sprawling down the hillsides. Was very hot at the service stop but I see black storm clouds looming over the mountains up ahead. The forecast today for Venice is storms, just to add to my concerns about negotiating Venice to find my guest house. Alex, who runs it, was way too laid back in his email before I left the UK. ‘No problema, I can help you’. We’ll see! We have now driven through about 50 miles of acres and acres of vineyards on both sides… no wonder the Italians like their wine! This region is Lavis, Trento according to my GPS. 2nd service station stop, huge slice of pizza and we’re back on the road. Might settle down to a movie – Will Ferrell. ……movie is rubbish, will settle for a music channel and the scenery as we close in on Venice. Just passing Verona and I am reminded of “two gentlemen of Verona”! Just received text from Alex asking what time I will be arriving at his guest house this evening. How the heck do I know, depends on how I get on with his Vaporetti!  I am now sitting in a little restaurant somewhere in the back streets of Venice enjoying the best and most deserved glass of vino rossi ever!!!

Back to the bus some 5 hours ago…. we were hit by a serious thunderstorm just after Verona which continued all the way to Venice with exceedingly heavy rain.  Many vehicles had stopped at the side of the road it was so torrential but our bus continued carefully.  The land either side was like paddyfields.  It was always going to be stormy in Venice so I wasn’t too surprised but it didn’t help my concerns for finding my bed for the night.  Alex had texted that he would leave the door key in the little window so I could arrive when I liked, which didn’t exactly inspire confidence.

Anyway the bus finally arrived at Camping Jolly in the pouring rain about an hour late and a bus full of young people plus two pensioners immediately made a queue to check in.  The Busabout guide helped me with my onward journey on to the island but alas the last shuttle had already left.  Another couple, who I later learned were Amanda and Michael from New South Wales (wouldn’t you know it) also needed to get to the island.  They were going even further than me to Lido.  It was still chucking it down with rain.  Why on earth did I send my umbrella home in that package?!  For a moment we thought about staying here at Camping Jolly for tonight.  The rain eased off slightly so we all decided to follow Kerri’s directions to get the Number 6 bus into Venice.  After all we had paid an awful lot for our Venice accommodation and didn’t want to waste it.  I covered my backpack with my remaining bin liner (you may recall the other was used to send package home but rejected by German post office worker).  I managed to get my asparagas canvas bag containing a change of clothes under my waterproof. The others were more suitably dressed although Amanda had only a thin waterproof poncho.  They both had umbrellas!  Finally we made a dash for it…. take a left outside gate, under tunnel, right, then left up to roundabout, take a right, then go to tobacconist for ticket and get bus just across road.  Well half way there the heavens opened again and we dashed for a tree.  Then lightning and immediately a deafening clap of thunder.  I commented that I remembered being told as a child never to stand under a tree in a thunder storm.  How stupid was that?!  The three of us got to know each other quite well under that tree during the rainstorm.  As it eased off we proceeded.  Now was it right at this roundabout?  We consulted our trusty GPS on iPhone.  Amanda and I thought yes, but Michael was not so sure.  Eventually I asked a woman who was sheltering nearby, firstly if she spoke English – no, what about French then, I asked hopefully remembering I was in Italy and why would she speak anything other than Italian.  ‘Oui, je parle Francais, she replied.  Ok so somehow between gauches and droits and a good soaking we got our Number 6 bus across the causeway to the Tronchetta.  This is our first view of Venice.  Here we needed to find a Vaporetti to take us further afield which is when we parted company, vowing to keep in touch on Facebook, etc.  They had to get the yellow line number 3 to Lido while I bought my 7 euro ticket for the red line number 4.1 to Arsenale.

While waiting at the E terminal I checked with a young Italian who was waiting there, that I was at the right place, and we got deep into conversation.  His English was good and he was so helpful.  To summarise, he pointed out all the landmarks and places of interest along the way on my first Vaporetti trip until he had to get off to go to a theatre production that his friend was taking part in.  He left armed with my business card saying he would like to see my artwork and comment on my blog.  His name was Abramo.

Eventually we were all told to get off at Zaccarini.  But I need to get to Arsenale I said to the Vaporetti guy.  “Walk” he replied doing the walking thing with his fingers. It was still raining lightly and my sandaled feet were cold and sodden, but I was so enthralled by my surroundings I just couldn’t stop taking pictures.  

By now night was falling and lights began twinkling all along the canalside reflecting in the water.  I really needed to find my way to Calle…. what was it?   ….before it got dark and before the battery ran out on my GPS (iPhone).  After much crossing of bridges, going up exceedingly narrow and quaint alleyways (wanting to take pictures of lovely old doorways) finding myself not able to go where the GPS said because it was a dead end or a canal, anxiety again began to set in.  I finally showed the address to a waitress in a small back street restaurant, rain dripping from my hood.  Ah yes, she said, come this way.  She led me through a side door into a very dark and narrow pathway and pointed to a door.  ‘Here it is’, she said.  I just couldn’t believe it!  Such relief and there was the key, as Alex had said, and it opened the door and I found my way up to the third floor passing the shower room on the way to my room on the right.  There was only one other room on the left.  I opened the door to such a welcome sight…. a basic but nonetheless delightful little room with shuttered windows to two aspects overlooking my favourite Italian terra cotta roofs. Inside a single bed with freshly laundered linen and big soft white towel and map of Venice, all as Alex had said.  There was a socket to charge up my phone and I just took off my wet things and sat down for a moment to triumph in my achievement.

Next back down to the shower to wash my feet in warm soapy water and change into my only pair of dry canvas shoes, a change of top too, then back to that nice little restaurant for a well earned vino rossi.  It arrived quickly and did that go down well.  Viva Mo!!  Feeling hungry now, it was about 10pm, I asked for a simple spaghetti dish and a second wine to wash it down.  I was so relieved and chuffed with myself for finding this delightful little corner of Venice.