By road to Hanoi then train to Hue

Quick sluice down in the shower then back up to the dining room/bar for a huge breakfast.  I will list here all the items that were put on the table in roughly the order they came. Little cakes, toast, jam, cheese, plate of pear slices, bacon & fried eggs, anchor New Zealand butter, beef soup, yoghurts, coffee, tea, bananas.

After breakfast: we ate it all apart from a few laughing cow cheeses, which Indu took for later, we marvelled at a demonstration by one of the staff members. Wow so skilled with a very sharp knife.p1100111

By 10am we were back on the road to Hanoi where we will be taking an overnight train.

Quan was entertaining as he described Vietnamese culture over weddings and divorce on the return bus journey. We stopped at a pottery, where they made anything from huge beautiful urns down to chop stick holders. We all sat down to tea and sesame sticks before heading off to our lunch stop.p1100119

Road to Hanoi appalling – full of pot holes!
Stopped for lunch – spring roll and pineapple and mango smoothie.
Passed water hyacinth plants….

We arrived back at the hotel to be offered just 2 rooms to shower and change in between 9 of us then free until appointed meeting time to go to the train station.

Michael had very kindly offered to be our guide and took us to the Old Quarter of Hanoi, where he had been several days previously. First he took us to a restaurant for the special Vietnamese Egg Coffee, made with beaten egg, fresh coffee and condensed milk. I had read about this in my book ‘The Silk Merchant’s Daughter’ and it certainly lived up to it’s reputation – delicious! Our next stop would be a sandwich bar where we ordered excellent crusty filled rolls and fruit smoothies.

img_1567img_1252I have to say the walks between these places were treacherous. We dodged between cars, motor bikes and cycles laden with produce. Absolutely no road rules whatsoever. Copying Michael we followed in single file, bunching together to cross the roads. He looked so confident striding out in front of a mass of oncoming ‘iron buffaloes’ and miraculously they stopped or swerved round us beeping their horns. We just stuck with him as he guided us through unchartered territory using the satnav on his iPhone. We reached the beautiful lake as dusk was falling and the lights shimmered across the water. We circled the lake before Michael’s final destination for us, a Beer Hall. There were several to choose from and we settled on one with a good fan, a loo and a view of the busy old quarter.p1100154

Back at the hotel, it was fun all sharing facilities preparing to leave for the station at 9.30. We said goodbye to our driver and boarded the train for Hue.  Four to a cabin but one remaining – Gareth very kindly offered to share with strangers. This is such a good group; we seem to gel so well and the guys are particularly helpful.

Installed in our cosy cabin for four , Indu, Jack, Gill and me, with bags safely stowed beneath the bottom bunks, we proceeded to pool our resources of nibbles. A trolley with noodles came along followed by drinks. We bought some Tiger beer and enjoyed our little party before settling down to sleep.

img_1364The train shook and rattled its way out of the city and into the countryside. I tossed and turned on my hard mattress as the train swayed from side to side.  Sleep clearly wasn’t coming as the train seemed to rock and sway and clatter over what must have been some crossover tracks., interminable crossover tracks! Eventually I must have nodded off then woke about 5 feeling cold. The aircon must’ve finally kicked because it was cold and I had to wrap the blanket round me. Now the train was calm and I was comfortable.

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Hanlong Bay

Comfortable night in Hongngoc Hotel – aircon, good breakfast variety then minibus for 4 hours towards Halong Bay.  Comfort stop where we saw amazing marble sculptures en route.
We arrived at beautiful Halong Bay and a small private boat awaited.  Crew members greeted us with damp flannels as we boarded.  After freshening up in our little cabin berths, we regrouped in the dining room for lunch. Again, an excellent selection of Vietnamese food, including the best ever calamari!

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img_1336 After lunch we relaxed for an hour in the sunshine on the top deck before preparing for a bit of kayaking.  I was a little concerned about my lower back problem but usually find a bit of different activity is good for it. Gill and I shared a kayak and soon got the hang of it. We stayed fairly close to Jack and Hwan, leaving the guys, Michael and Gareth behind in the distance.  They took a while to work out a rhythm.  We paddled across the bay and weaved in and out of the rocks and caves. At one point in a peaceful area we saw a monkey and then some black kites. Paddling back to the boat, my back was really hurting and climbing back up aboard was so difficult, even with the help of the young Vietnamese crew.  However, a shower of sorts, change of clothes and a Pinacolato soon put us right.

Dinner was the usual delicious assortment of delicacies, including, oysters and humongous prawns neatly arranged upright around a display of flowers cleverly handcrafted from vegetables. After dinner we retired to the top deck to enjoy the final moments of a pretty impressive sunset. A karaoke had been mentioned, but we were a small select group, thank goodness, so that was out. I said “Does anyone have a pack of cards?” to which both Gareth and Michael replied “I do!”  The evening was then spent playing ‘presidents and Arseholes’ – a new one on me but lots of fun!

We finally retired to our hot cabins. Aircon yes, but only when the generator was not being used to cook or to make the boat move! Yikes…. ‘Maureen, there’s a beetle on my bed!’ Armed with a glass tumbler, I moved the bed as it crawled along the edge then disappeared from sight. Meanwhile Gill was in the bathroom with a mallet trying to prevent another coming in through a hole in the floor. Hole safely plugged with loo paper, we retired to bed. A very hot sticky night but we managed a few hours sleep.

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Yangon to Hanoi

Watched Jane Austen’s ‘Love and Friendship’ – nice gentile classic, before settling down to sleep. Four and a half hours flying over India when we are woken with a delicious breakfast of fruit, cheese omelette and croissant with coffee.  Half an hour til touch down in Yangon before a further two hours to Hanoi! These long hauls just seem to go on for ever….

img_1289An hour sitting in the plane in the pouring rain at Yangon before the final leg to Hanoi.  Ham roll, fruit and tea…. another 3 episodes of Friends before touchdown – finally!

After a little wait for our bags and then finding our transfer driver at the other end of the airport, we soon found ourselves sailing through the rush hour traffic to the city centre.  There was a lovely sunset as a backcloth to the city high rises.

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We finally checked into our hotel just in time for our 6 o’clock meeting with our guide Hwan.  My eyelids were drooping as he explained his plans for us in the coming 10 days. Then we found ourselves out for a group meal to sample the local cuisine.  There were 8 of us: 3 from NZ, 2 from Oz, 2 from Oxford and one who was too tired and stayed in the hotel.  More about them tomorrow.

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Setting off…

Fantastically smooth transition from Charlbury to Gatwick via ‘Flyaway’. Good we got the earlier train as the next one was cancelled. Charlbury to Gatwick £12.50, how cheap was that!! No driving/parking worries and straight into the the airport… no queue at check- in, no queue at the loos…. So – coffee time and the big English breakfast!

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Arab Emirates are the best – loads of leg room, G&T of course, great meal of grilled chicken, Sauvignon Blanc, a good movie and a doze for the six and a half hours to Dubai. So far so good!  Even ice cream tubs during the flight….

img_1231img_1234And loungers in Dubai airport where we can stretch out during our three and a half hour midnight wait for flight to Hanoi.

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Traveling light!

My bags are packed, am ready to go…… leeeaving on a jet plane… la-la la-la la

There is a surprisingly amount of space in my bag, despite packing footwear, toiletries and art materials.  What could I have forgotten?!  Just 15k and we are allowed 30!

Very lightweight filmy tops and Eastern style loose trousers gathered at the ankle, a cotton dress or two and of course the bikini for that all important swim in the South China seas.  Got the deek spray and the special plugs for devices.  Dollars ordered.  Rainy season just about over, I’m Not looking forward to the hot steamy nights.  The weather forecast for Monday is looking somewhat dramatic compared to the good ole English autumn.

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Loving Jessie’s photos and FB posts

I’m just following the posts of Leigh’s daughter in New Zealand, Jessie, who is currently touring Cambodia with her sister.  Wow, some of the images are stunning!  Here is a taste of what’s to come for us Gill!  First pic Angkor Wat, or maybe Thom….

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Jessie posted her restaurant bill on FB on 24 August.  This is good news for us Gill! And useful to know that we only need US dollars in Cambodia and plenty of singles!

Jessie's bill

Jessie at the North Gate, loving the moss and trees all over the temple.temple_Cambodia

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Saturday 20 August – planning

Well I never thought I’d be doing two biggies in one year but on returning from NZ, my friend Gill asked me if I would like to accompany her on a 3-week trip to Cambodia and Vietnam later in the year…. I couldn’t really say “no” now could I?   Plan of action: rapid painting and selling of work all summer to pay for this trip.

So now, a few months later, flights are booked, balance paid to Intrepid via Trailfinders and we are finalising our plans.  Here is a basic map of the route we will be taking with a more detailed itinerary later.

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Homeward Bound

Muesli and blueberries for breakfast with Sandra.  Thank you for having me to stay and look forward to see you again before too long.

Next job to fill my trusty car with fuel before returning it to the hire company.  The insurance was pretty high but at least the fuel was cheap and I didn’t use much!image

arrived for flight with plenty of time to spare.  Good take off, pretty bumpy landing, but arrived at Birmingham International safely.image

Now here’s something a little different.  The 12.14 train only goes as far as Leamington Spa, then we’re put on a bus to Oxford!  Hey ho I like a bit of variety!

imageIt seems the rail track was up for repairs between Didcot and Reading so not even a train to Charlbury when the bus finally dropped me off in Oxford.  The railway staff were not particularly helpful at this point so I trailed round to the bus station to get the X3 which I just missed.  So a wander round the Gloucester Green market took up some of the hour I had to wait.

imageI bought some cherries to cheer me up.

image  Then along came Vic, a cheerful face from Charlbury and we got the 3.15 bus and chatted all the way home.  Certainly good to see a familiar face.  Finally walked in the door at about 4.30!

 

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Off to Carrick – Tuesday 2 August

Had set the alarm on my iPhone for 6.30 so as to be awake in good time to see John to say goodbye before he went to work.  I woke a few minutes earlier as is usually the case if I set the alarm.  Had a quick shower and had a go with the straighteners to sort out my hair….. looked at the time and realised I might have missed John.  Damn!  Sure enough he was backing his van out of the drive – I waved frantically but too late!  I returned to the kitchen to find his note….imageI sat and had coffee with Christine and we said our goodbyes before she too went off to work.  Packed my bag then headed back over to the farm as Raymond had phoned the day before inviting me round for coffee.

Raymond and Kay took me into Larne to a Coffee Shop right beside the docks where we could see the Larne/Stranrare ferry going out.  We each chose huge fruit scones and Cappicinos – delish, and chatted non stop about everything – a good old catch-up!image

imageon the way back they showed me Ryan’s new house on a quiet little estate nearby and then the footings of the new house being built for Lindsay up at the other farm beyond Gleno that I had no idea existed..  It was a dreadful morning with typical Irish fine rain.  Eventually we returned to Ballyvernstown where Raymond showed me various new farm buildings, but the hayloft that I fell through over 50 years ago still remained like a constant memorial.imageimage

We said our goodbyes then I set my google maps for Carrick and before long I was sitting round the table in the kitchen with Jim and Rosemary having soup and sandwiches.  Jim had come home from work especially to see me but had to get back soon after.  Rosemary and I sat and chatted a while and before long Gemma arrived home early from work.  She was delighted with the pastel I had done of Bella, her black retriever.image

imageimageFinally I headed out into what had become a thick fog and slowed my speed down to 10mph. It cleared a little as I got on to the main road. I had left Isle-O-Glass a little later than planned as Gemma turned up and I got a little caught up in heavy traffic around Holywood.  However I eventually arrived with Sandra and didn’t recognise the place inside.  She had painted all the dark wood work white!  It looked very spacious and light.  I took a photo of the newly painted staircase as I thought you’d be interested Dad – you’ve often said you would like yours painted white!imageimage

After tea (supper) we walked round to see Uncle Alec and Auntie Jean in their bungalow not far from Sandra’s.  Uncle Alec was sitting in his usual chair by the window waking from a doze.  Auntie Jean was the same as ever, cheerfully bringing in tea and cakes despite my protests that I had just eaten a big tea…. in fact I’d hardly stopped eating since I’d been in Ireland!   By the time we got up to leave Uncle Alec was much more cheerful having discussed politics, one of his favourite topics, he proceeded to show me round the house and garden.  It was good to say our goodbyes on a happy note as they both waved cheerfully from their front door.

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Next we walked round to Sandra’s sister’s house.  Again not far away. Shirley and Ian greeted us along with three barking dogs..  I had done a pastel painting of Fizz previously. imageNow there was a new addition to the family – a Yorkie pup – the cutest little thing you ever saw!
imageWe sat a while chatting over a glass of wine and Molly joined us. She had now just completed her first year at Durham University and was loving it.

Finally, with an early start in mind for the morning, we took our leave, vowing we would meet up again next year, unless of course there were any more parties to bring us together sooner.

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Lazy day in Ballygally

I had a good lie in this morning as Christine and John had left early for work, leaving me a key that worked sometimes!

I made myself some toast and cereal and coffee.  As the weather looked a bit grim I proceeded to do a watercolour from one of my favourite photos of Ballintoy Harbour. image In the meantime, Johanna appeared in the kitchen to iron her work clothes and we chatted briefly.  Then a bit later Jill came in to get herself some breakfast then continued with her New Zealand adventure plans.  She would be hiring a camper van with Greg for this holiday in the autumn.  She asked me one or two questions about Milford Sound.

At around 11, I popped across the road to the farm to see if either Raymond or Kay were about, as I hadn’t had much chance to chat at the party. But no one home. Christine told me later that Kay was away in Kildare on a birthday treat.

So, I grabbed a towel and swimming things (just in case) then made my way over to see Pamela.  I found her busy weeding the garden and we went indoors where she offered me some lunch along with the twins.  It was actually their birthday.  This is George, the cat. They also have a tabby kitten, a new King Charles spaniel puppy and another sweet little dog – part Dachshund part Yorkshire Terrier – a Dorky!imageIt is many years since I was in the house when Irene and Nat used to live there, and it seemed like a lifetime ago and I had moved into the next generation!  We chatted a while then she started putting the ingredients together for a birthday cake.image

By now it had brightened up outside so I took the opportunity of heading down to the beach, remembering my cozzie was in the car.  However, lovely though it was at the beach, the wind was too cold to tempt me to go in, so I walked a bit and paddled then sat against a rock and fell asleep.

In the evening we had planned to go to the cinemas so I checked times and texted Christine and Pamela to verify arrangements, then headed back to the house to get ready as it was an early showing.

a royal crown in honour of the Qeen’s birthday in the roundabout in Larne. imagePam couldn’t come in the end as she had to fetch Jocelyn from Larne.  So Christine and I armed ourselves in Azda across the car park with nuts and sweets and a drink and then settled ourselves in the posh seats at the back to watch ‘Finding Dory’!  Very clever animation and voiceover by Ellen DeGeneres.image

Afterwards we crossed the car park again to the Brooklyn Bay Diner, where Jill worked, for a bite to eat.  imageWe heard ‘Happy Birthday’ being sung over the other side, never realising it was for the twins, Natasha and Kristina, who were celebrating with friends!  They came over afterwards for a chat – lovely girls.image

Christine drove us back a different route with a high night time view of Larne Harbour and then through the pretty village of Glenoe.imageimageWe got home to find Johanna busy baking a cake for the Young Farmers Annual Social.image

 

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