Maureen's Travel Blog

Here is Mary, our driver.  She is so much fun, a French speaking Canadian from Montreal.  Good room for our 2 nights in Banff, this time at a different hostel (Samesun). The room is huge with en suite and balcony. Five of our Moose group are in here together along with 2 other guys on the first night, one of whom snored and the other sleep spoke in German… but no worries all good!

Natalie, Carol and I had chosen to go on a Trail Ride this morning. They were both from Switzerland. Natalie couldn’t speak any English when she arrived in Canada for her adventure in April. She had just been to a few classes. But her English was improving daily while she was with us. We had some great laughs together. She had 2 grown up sons in Switzerland so was only about 10 years younger than me. Carol kept and worked with horses and more especially with disadvantaged children.

When we arrived at Spray River Corral it was clear that Natalie, who had never been on a horse before, was very nervous and almost bottled out, especially when the usual risks were mentioned. The guide offered to lead her and all was well. We were to ride Western style – something I’d never done before and I felt a bit like a cowboy!

It was a beautiful ride through densely wooded areas where we were treated to a rare sight of a full sized male Elk. He looked magnificent looking straight at us with huge antlers before quietly moving away between the trees. We then went through a shallow fast flowing river then back up the side of a mountain on the other side where we could see the amazing Banff Hotel building set against a clear blue sky. We crossed another river before returning to the corral.

On the way back to the hostel we noticed a little creature sitting on its haunches watching us like a Meercat. On closer inspection (as it was very friendly and came right up to us looking for food) we saw that it was a cross between a chipmunk and a squirrel. I was later to find out that it was a British Columbian Ground Squirrel and many more came out of their burrows to see us.

Anyway Natalie and I had to hurry back as we were due to be taken to Kicking Horse River for a barbecue lunch followed by white water rafting no less. Now this was a first for me and I was pretty nervous! I needn’t have been as once we’d been well kitted up in all the necessary gear and had been given some serious training, I was ready for the bubbling 3 degree temperatures of Kicking Horse River! And what an adrenalin rush as we rocked and splashed our way through Terminator, the biggest rapid on that part of the river.  Here is a pic of the cd as Natalie and I shared the cost of this and she is going to send me the pics later…. and also a pic of a quieter part of the same river….

We chatted happily of our achievements that day with the others that evening over a beef rib dinner in a very good and highly recommended restaurant in Banff. One or two of the others had been on the gondola – a walk in the park by comparison!

Bright sunny but chilly morning as we set off back to Banff. Quick stop to view a small glacier and Tangle Falls which we climb up. There are some unusual pine trees with red flowers. The mountains look so beautiful with a layer probably quite a few meters thick of snow along the ridge. You can see a cross section where it has fallen away.

Our next stop was Athabasca where we walked to the Glacier. This left me quite breathless both physically and mentally with awe. Serious evidence here of the icecap melting. There were markers showing how much more quickly it was melting in recent years. The resulting water runs into The Pacific, The Atlantic and The Arctic Oceans.

On the way to our next stop we saw a splendid herd of. Big-Horned Sheep beside the road. They looked more like large deer.

Next we stopped at Pandora Falls which was accessed along a lovely trail through the Forest. This fall cascaded out of a hole in the rock creating a fine mist and hence, in the warm sunshine, a beautiful rainbow – just magical! Next picnic lunch.

After lunch we travelled a little further before stopping at Weeping Falls which literally cried water down the wall of the mountain. The meandering river below was a scene to behold and I would have loved to have sat there all afternoon and painted in the warm sunshine.

I love being around these young people (and some older ones too) on these adventure tours. They are so positive, forward looking and love life and everything around them. They are also so caring and helpful… it becomes contagious and we are all on a high together!

Next stop Peyto Lake and if I had painted this no one would have believed me… It is a stunning cobalt blue in colour resulting from a complex mix of minerals from the glacier and the mountain. There were tame chipmunks here obviously used to being fed by visitors passing through.

Another stop with stunning views was Moraine Lake where there were trees strewn on the beach from centuries of avalanches. We had to clamber over them to get to the cool clear turquoise waters of the lake.

We finally arrived back on Banff where went up in the bar for dinner. I had pre ordered a pork curry which was one of 4 dinners included with the Moose deal – very nice washed down with a glass of Sauvignon blanc from the bar. It was nice to catch up with everyone as some were leaving in the morning. Hannah and Jeff were off to Calgary on the Greyhound bus but we would probably meet up again in Vancouver. We got talking about art and Everyone wanted to see my artist FB page and were in awe.

I was sorry I couldn’t spend longer in Banff, such a pretty town in the Rockies with good shops and restaurants and plenty to do and see.

It was another bright sunny morning as we left – we have been so lucky with the weather. First stop Safeway to buy our picnic lunch. We soon stopped at Golden for a coffee and to refuel our trusty Moosebus.

Our exercise for the morning would be Cedar Walk, a beautiful purpose built wooden boardwalk through a forest of huge cedar trees dating back 500 years. It was damp and cool after recent rain.
Just looking at trees generally in this part of Canada- there seem to be 3 main varieties although I don’t know their names – most common tall narrow conifers with areas where many have died due to a beetle which is spreading a disease. These are interspersed with another tall narrow conifer but brighter green with straight horizontal branches. The third looks like a cross between a silver birch and a gum tree. Will have to find out the names of these trees.

Revelstoke National Park was the Place for our picnic. I remembered us having Macdonalds here late on the way up with no time to stop after our bus broke down. Now on a lovely hot day I could see how beautiful it is by the lake. Time to put our clocks back again by 1 hour.We stopped for home made ice cream at a dairy farm where there were new born calves from the Holstein herd.  Here is Carole with a calf sucking her finger.

There were unusual red flowers growing in therapies with dog daisies and buttercups – have seen these a lot on the side of the road and thought they were poppies.

Highlight of the day we saw a huge Grizzly grazing or maybe digging for worms in a field alongside a black bear – most unusual sight!  The black bear kept disappearing in the long grass.
Soon after all the excitement of the bears, we stopped to look around Davies eccentric Farm and Goat walk.  The goats had learnt to rotate a wheel at the top of the walk to haul up a small bucket containing food, if the tourists put some in.

When we arrived back at Kelowna Hostel, each of us was nonplussed to be asked medium or rare for steak?  It was a great surprise to find that steak was on the menu for dinner and delicious steak it was too.  Mary had also planned “Champagne” all round as it was to be our last night with her.  What a great driver, thanks Mary!  In the evening Natalie, Carole and I headed towards to cinemas to watch a Robert Redford movie (as the night was young).  However, it was far too good an evening to be indoors so instead we headed to the lake and played some beach volley ball then challenged each other to a swim in the lake.  It was soooo cold, far colder than the 3 degree temperature of the water in the rapids but then I had a wet suit on.  So much more fun than the cinema and cost us nothing.

I just loved some of the artwork all over the walls in this hostel… just a couple here….. these filled a whole wall, floor to ceiling!

Lovely hostel in Banff, comfortable room (4-bed dorm) but we had to pay 6 dollars for breakfast…. not much time here as we had to leave at 8am for Jasper. Beautiful morning with stunning mountain ranges all around.  Michael, Cherry, Sophie and Silvie left us for the Lumberjack leg of the Moose tour. This involved more strenuous hiking.  But we were joined by Angus from NZ and Hannah and Jeff, who had just got engaged in Sydney.

Lake Louise next with a very grand chateau with a number of vintage cars arriving at the main entrance. The Lake of course was stunning but there were rather too many tourists here.   I photographed a Clark’s Nutcracker bird here which was very tame.

Next we stopped at Lake Bow to stretch our legs. It was very cold here with water from the glacier and surrounded by Christmas trees. We had another group photo taken here.

Our lunch stop was by the Saskatchewen River which was made up of glacier fed emerald rivulets with unusual wild spring flowers in abundance on the banks.

Later we stopped at Athabasca falls for a half hour break – beautiful rock formations here and powerful turquoise water.

Next we stopped at Maligne Canyon for a walk.  I saw my first Elk in the wild, a magnificent animal and it didn’t run off when the bus stopped to take a closer look.

We finally arrived in Jasper and went into town for supplies for the next day’s breakfast and lunch then back to HI Hostel.  This hostel reminded me very much of River Valley in New Zealand but this time in the middle of the woods!  Beware of the bears!  We made a group meal of veggie curry which was fun followed by barbecued marshmallows.  This was hilarious with beers and wine as the sun went down.  There was an enormous German Shepherd dog on the premises.  I made a howling noise like I used to with Blue and he copied.  I really didn’t expect this, it was so funny, especially as he did it to order after that.  Everyone was amazed.  We were all bunked up together in a 16-bed chalet which was very cosy and I slept really well.  The place could be described a basic log cabin with burner in the centre. – no wi-fi and the two loos were just a shed in the woods (hole in the ground affair with roof!)  But it was rustic and fun.

Hardly slept at all last night – party in hostel went on all night. A guy dressed as a penguin was still drinking beer downstairs when I went for breakfast (all included again).

All set to go at 8pm but the bus wouldn’t start. Seriously broken down so we have to get a replacement bus.

In the meantime some of us go to explore the town. Some stop off for a coffee (I have never seen so many Starbucks as I have since being in this country.  Perhaps they don’t have to pay their taxes here!)   Cherry, who is from Hong Kong, and I seek out a church nearby and arrive just in time for their service. We were made most welcome but had to leave early for an update on the bus situation. However, in the conversation that ensued between Cherry and myself I discovered what a fascinating person she is and what an amazing journey she has had in her young life to become a Christian.

We learnt that a replacement bus would not arrive until at least 3pm and it’s a long journey to Banff so we won’t arrive til the early hours. So we head off to the mountains for a hike, picking up some provisions for a picnic en route. We found a lovely beach location by the lake for lunch. It was a glorious day.  Natalie (from Switzerland) and I chose to stay by the lake and left the others to hike up the mountain.

We watched some kayaking. I spotted a pair of Cranes fly up into a nearby tree then one flew across to a nearby boat loaded with wood. Someone was throwing a ball into the lake for his Labrador and then we saw the funniest sight and couldn’t stop laughing: the tiniest of Chihuahuas in a specially designed wetsuit/buoyancy suit was swimming for all its worth to retrieve a ball.
Back to the hostel and still no sign of the replacement bus….

Finally left at 4pm in a tiny mini bus. Had to cram all luggage in the back. Only just enough room to squeeze the 12 of us in. 6 hours drive past beautiful lake and mountain scenery.

Loo stop at Vernon, the oldest town in Interior BC. Passed through Revelstone which is being developed into great ski resort.

Arrived Banff Hostel HI at 11pm but was really midnight because of the time zone.  Banff looked like a Christmas wonderland because of all the lights on the Trees.  But it was too dark to take any pictures.

Sorry no updates just now, little.or no Internet… will catch up soon.  Is anyone even there?

Not such a good night – it was way too hot in my room even with the window wide open! I was sharing a 4 bed with one other who returned briefly around 10pm then left without returning all night despite there being a huge rucksack and walking boots on the bed! Was it something I did???

Breakfast at 7 was excellent- mixed fresh fruit, toast and coffee… more than I got at my posh hotel! I familiarized myself with one or two of the kids going on the trip with me and we finally set off up Highway 1 at 8.10.

There was a serious amount of agriculture between Vancouver and the foot of the mountains. Our first loo stop was aptly named Bridal Veil Falls. (Haha I meant because it looked like a bridal veil, not like a loo!)  We walked up the side of the mountain to see these falls which I have to say left me quite breathless. I am so out of condition!

The next stop was for lunch at Hope. There was a small craft market in the park but it was so windy that people were holding onto their gazebos to stop them blowing away. I found a very good art gallery with an amazing exhibition of textiles.  On to our next stop which was for bit of fun. We were asked to make the shape of each letter of the word MOOSE in pairs against a beautiful mountain landscape. It will be on FB.  Silly nonsense to help us befriend each other …all good fun!

Finally arrived in Kelowna… some time to unwind before dinner so we walked along the beach by the lake… a beautiful evening.

But a big surprise awaited us after a very nice dinner of salmon salad with barbecued chicken legs, off back to the lake and a 2 hour cruise around the lake… beautiful! But this was no ordinary boat ride… remember we are with MOOSE backpackers… Our big thrill to round off the day was a jet boat ride… and with twists and turns – woweeeeeee another first for me.

There’s going to be little opportunity to upload pics now as we are on the go all the time… just now we are playing silly fun games over pizza and beers 🙂

Just a quick update on last night:  I decided to eat in the hotel as it was my last night there and didn’t realize the prices until I had sat down and was asked what I’d like to drink….shock and horror!  Anyway it was a delicious meal of Seafood Risotto washed down with the best Pino Grigio.  A fitting way to say goodbye to luxury and hello to backpacking!  I also took a night shot from my balcony in the hotel.

Wet and quite a few degrees cooler this morning. I’m packing up two bags before checking out of my luxury hotel; one to leave locked up on Vancouver and the other is my backpack for the Moose Bus tomorrow. Will leave them at the hotel for the day.

Hopped back on the Big Bus (my ticket is still good!) and hop off at the Vancouver Art Gallery which used to be the Court House, a beautiful bit of architecture but sadly depleted in its exhibits, partly closed off for refurbishment.  However there were two exhibitions one by Spiegelman, a comic artist with a serious side in his Maus period… too serious for my liking.  Then there was The Grand Hotel, an exhibition about hotels and travel around the world… quite interesting but not really what I came to see.  There was a James Hart permanent wood engraving under construction on the top floor which depicted local creatures… amazing.

I then braved the cold to cross several blocks to visit Christchurch Cathedral.  Very old and dwarfed by the high rises around it, it had dark wood roof timbers but the organ looked to have been refurbished recently and filled the whole back upper gallery.  As well as the traditional beautiful stained glass windows, there was a set of modern stained glass – lovely.

Next I walked straight down the main street to the Bill Reid Gallery where I saw West Coast Tribal Art and wood carving as well as  painting by Lyle Wilson, very graphic. and mainly depicting salmon and ravens – loved it!

I then stopped for a bite to eat at the Garden Delhi just next door.  They had light bites at a reasonable price, so a Ceasar Salad went down very well.  As I made my way down to the harbour to explore Canada Place a little more, I came across two more Galleries in Howe Street which were much more traditional and exhibited some very fine works of modern art.  I walked the length of a massive cruiser liner berthed up, probably preparing for a voyage to Alaska, then as I returned to the road, wouldn’t you know it, a Big Bus drew up.  I took a trip round the city one more time before getting off at my hotel to collect my bags and make my way down to the Samesun Hostel.

All my reservations that had built up during the day were gone in a flash as I walked up to the desk and signed in, with all the kids hanging out in different areas, either chatting excitedly or on their netbooks or phones…. or just sitting on the stairs (why do they do that?!)  I felt surprisingly quite at home… was just like in NZ.  I checked in and was given my key, door and internet code and was just about to lug my bags up 3 floors (I’d asked for a quiet room) when a very nice young man saw this old woman struggling and offered to carry the big one for me.   I then found the Moose Bus office on the 2nd floor and they were so helpful and encouraging.  I even got a discount for leaving off part of the trip where I shall be meeting Cindy.  I also met Mary the driver who is quite a character.  It’s all going to be fine!  Bring it on!!!!

It is a beautiful evening and as hot as ever and I have just walked down towards the beach to book two nights in the International Hostel for my return from the Rockies, a new part of the city for me.  On the way back I was feeling a bit peckish again and sat outside a street cafe with a Donair… no this is not a person or even a bloke, it is a giant wrap filled with all sorts of goodies – salad, meat , spices, yoghurt.  It looked the smallest thing on the menu board but like all dishes in this city when they arrive they are just huge and I had to leave half of it – unlike me!

Anyway, I thought I should just update the blog now as I have an early start on the Moose Bus.  I’m not sure when I shall be able to update again although there shouldn’t be a problem as Wifi seems to be freely available everywhere… it’s just putting the pics on that is is a problem as I need a computer!  Next stop Kelowna! (with the kids !)

22 deg and feeling hot today but might be cooler at high altitude. I walked down to Canada Place to get the 10am shuttle but it was full. Assured of a place on the next one, I sauntered leisurely round the stunningly modern and shiny new harbour where the little seaplanes were landing and taking off for Vancouver island.  Lovely relaxed atmosphere reminding me of Sydney Harbour but much quieter with loads of open space with glass buildings on one side and sea on the other.

I  was finally on the shuttle bus sailing past The Lost Lagoon where I saw my first Bald Eagle in the wild.  It flew effortlessly low over the bus and into the lagoon.

Soon I found myself ascending hundreds of feet above Spruce trees on the way up Grouse Mountain.  Of course you could see for miles all the way down the mountain to the various water inlets, the clusters of high rises in miniature that was the city and the various islands nearby.

When we got to the top there were several events for us.  But first I could not resist a cinnamon and apple pancake freshly made as I waited… hmmm scrumptious… if a little larger than I had expected or needed!

I then settled on a wooden bench to watch a lumberjack demo… quite impressive but just a little touristy.

Then time to wander about this beautiful place oh so high up with plenty of deep snow all around us, although the sun was very hot.  I couldn’t understand why it hadn’t melted!

The views of snow capped mountains surrounded by forests of spruce brought on that desire to paint- oh why did I leave my paints in the hotel room  – doh! Will have to do it from photos.  My first sighting of a

Grizzly bear was not the best. He was curled up asleep among the trees. Will see how good my zoom lens is!   Silly me also left my binoculars behind too.

At an allotted time we were able to watch a flight display of several different species of birds of prey, including an owl, juvenile Bald Eagle, vulture and Peregrine Falcon… I was delighted to see these beautiful creatures in flight and close up.

To round off the afternoon I treated myself to some fries and a Granville beer. Another great day out… I chose today for the mountain as rain is forecast for tomorrow which I have saved for indoor stuff like galleries.

Today I’d planned to go to Granville Island and Stanley Park but how to get about? The Hotel staff are so helpful and friendly and told me about The Big Bus which would take me all over the city… hop on hop off style… perfect! I started with Granville Island which had a special atmosphere all of its own. Very arty with markets and craft stalls.. Also lots of BC salmon.. must try some sometime.  This is octopus…

There were buskers singing and playing different instruments beside a harbour full of exceedingly expensive looking yachts. I lingered there a while in the warm sunshine.
After further exploring I came upon the famous Granville Brewery where I sampled several beers and chatted to a couple from Arizona who were about to set off for Alaska.

I then headed back to hop back on the Big  Bus. This bus is certainly the best way to get a general feel of the city which is mainly modern with some stunningly designed high rises. The Gas town area has some of the oldest buildings dating from the 1850s and brick built. I decided to get off next in Chinatown where I wandered around the beautiful gardens. The next stop would be Stanley Park, although many points of interested were highlighted to us by our cheerful driver, including Vancouver Art Gallery and Christchurch Cathedral (which was very small). May look at those tomorrow as I have a 2 day Big Bus ticket.
Anyway on to Stanley Park which is lush with growth… many tall cedar trees and Acers. Also beautiful formal gardens. I took the opportunity of visiting the Vancouver Aquarium which was situated in the park and I have to say it is the best one I have ever been to. I have always been intrigued by the creatures of the sea, both large and small, but this was something else and the highlight of my day.  There were characterful sea otters and big white Beluga whales as well as the most beautiful and mesmerizing jelly fish on the planet all housed in very well designed natural areas.

It has been a full and interesting day… now for some dinner.