Maureen's Travel Blog

Dot and I had decided to lie in and just relax in the morning.  I took the opportunity of putting up a couple more blog posts as I have got so behind.  Around midday we took the shuttle bus into the city and walked to St Peter’s Square and who should tap me on the shoulder but Dom…. in the whole of Rome, she should notice my silly hat! The three of us walked together for a bit and then Dot and I got on the Hop On Hop Off City bus to see the sights.  It was a very hot day and we seemed to be constantly sitting in traffic hams.  We were very disappointed to find that most of the main interesting pieces of ancient architecture were clad in scaffolding, including the Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum.  Finding the Trevi Fountain with a fence around it and no water, we left in disgust and consoled ourselves with a light lunch of pizza and beer in one of those little side street restaurants.  On completion of the City Bus tour, we decided to go in search of some little back street piazzas and came across one full of Italian footie fans just settled to watch the match between Italy and Costa Rica on the outside screen (there was a screen inside too!)  The atmosphere was so special we decided to join them and bought ourselves a Spritz each.  The Italians are very passionate about their football so it was as entertaining for us to watch them as they watched their favourite team playing on the big screen….. sadly they lost but I think there may be another opportunity for them when I am in Florence.

Later as it became cooler and more comfortable, we walked across the River Tiber towards Spanish Steps.  It was so pleasant just keeping to the cobbled pedestrian areas and piazzas.  We sat down every so often beside a fountain or on a stone bench in a square and then finally on the flight of Spanish steps, before heading towards the Metro to take us back to Plus Roma.

NOTE: Beware, don’t be jostled on the Metro in Rome, or for that matter on any city transport….. keep your valuables close to you!

Good hearty English breakfast plus continental!  As I drank my juice, I watched the cook in the kitchen crack about two dozen eggs with such skill!  Scrambled eggs on toast, sausages, bacon…. fruit juice, toast and honey, pineapple and melon chunks and cappuccino.  I also took an apple for the road.  Well I did need to get my 6.50’s worth!

Back on the road with George the driver and Matt the guide.  I think he’s Aussie…. about 10 hours in the bus today.  Just had a loo/coffee break somewhere near Bologna.  And who should I find queuing for coffee with me but Amanda and Michael from that stormy Saturday night.  It was good to see them back on Busabout again.   They had found their way to Lido but was a far more tortuous journey than mine, and quite a long way on foot.  Hope to catch up with them later.  This posting will be mainly in note form with a few places names that I can research later so that I can see the route our journey took.

Fields full of sunflowers on either side of the road and many are in full bloom already, big yellow faces all looking in one direction… yeah, at the sun.  Also many fruit tree crops and acres of maize.  Now headed to Ancona for lunch break where I will catch up with Dom again.  She decided on a couple of nights in Ancona to break the journey to Rome.

Been asleep – grey skies as we make our way towards Ancona.  I see the Adriatic Sea to my left.  Lunch stop which I shard with Amanda and Michael, who are getting off at Ancona to take the overnight ferry to Croatia.  Ate far too much but the Mozzerella salad looked so good and I haven’t eaten much green stuff for a while.  Also ate a nice fresh fruit salad so all good….. back on the road to Ancona. Ancona is said to be in one of the poorer areas of Italy and Matt, our guide, certainly didn’t give much to commend it, so probably the right decision to leave it out of my itinerary in favour of an extra couple of days in Venice.  Passed roadsign to Pesaro…. just noticed road sign to Fabriano.  Is this wher the great hot-pressed watercolour paper comes from I wonder. Well we stopped for about half an hour in Ancona…. waved goodbye to storm couple, looked out for Dom getting on but she must be sitting at the back somewhere (unless she’s changed her mind and gone across to Croatia).

Still following the coast after an hour.  GPS says Danderto del Tronto.  The skies have cleared and is now a beautiful sunny afternoon.  Now Ascoli Pisino…. 20 minutes later leaving the freeway through toll and the coast towards Teramo.  Going through a bit of rain now  Frequent signage now to L’Aquila Roma.  Onto another freeway, the skies are very black ahead.  Now much more hilly with many tunnels.  Ooh a huge snow capped mountain has appeared out of the cloud.  That was a very long tunnel – did we go through the mountain?

Last service break – driver needs half an hour out of every two hours driving.  All these breaks however mean too much spending…. I confined myself this time to a bag of m&ms (getting a thing for them) and a bottle of water,

Nasty accident on the freeway.  Bits of metal on fire and guys trying to pull mangled wreckage from the central reservation railings.

5.15 now and it’s raining really heavily.  It felt quite cold at the last service station.  Ok another serious storm – forked lightning in the black clouds on the mountains.  I wonder what it’s like in Rome…. way to go yet…  Hilarious movie on the bus starring Jennifer Enniston…. about a pretend family set up smuggling drugs across border from south America.

Arrived at Plus Roma Hostel in good time at 6.15 and met Dot half way up steps to cabin.  Aah finally arrived…. she was just on her way to meet me from the bus and has a bottle of Italian red and nibbles all ready on the decking outside and we relax and catch up.

Comfortable night in this little twin cabin.
 I noticed a bunk pulls down for a third if required.  I am at a reasonably quiet end of the site and am away from the restaurant that turns into a nightclub later in the evening.  This little guy was outside my cabin this morning.

Coffee and croissant for breakfast 2.50 euros here which I thught was a bit steep for a hostel.  While buying I saw one of the guys on the bus from Wildshonau.  We chatted briefly about the wonders of Venice, then I tried to get on the net.  This was the time I had set aside to update the blog but the WiFi here was having none of it.

I spent a fairly lazy day here sorting my stuff, my washing and my finances.  In the afternoon time for a swim in the almost Olympic size pool.  After which I almost turned prunelike spending too long in the jacuzzi.  Afterwards I used the pool showers to wash my hair as there didn’t seem to be hot water in my cabin…. no big deal.

Caught up with Dot on line who is now on her way to the airport! Will see her in Rome tomorrow evening.  Also caught up with Marie who is busy planning our time in Florence….. soooo exciting!!!

Thought I would try out the hostel restaurant this evening.  It looks a bt posh!  All dressed up with long skirt…. and why not. First to the bar for a cocktail.  It arrives purple and is caed a Tingle!  Then I sit down outside where tables are all set for dinner and try and choose a table out of the still very hot sun.  The menu looks delicious and varied.  A ricotta and spinach cannelloni fits the bill nicely for my last night in Venice.

Just an appenditure  about machines…. the slot variety!        I never did have much confidence in them.  This morning I needed euro coins for the washing machine.  I put a 20 euro note into a change giving machine… it whirred a bit, then I pressed the button…. NOTHING! I’m sure the receptonist didn’t believe me as she handed over 20 coins which the machine happily hrew up for her when she took a note from the till to test it.    Then this evening after dinner on the way back to my cabin, I just fancied some m&ms…. far cheaper than a fancy Italian sweet!  I put in my euro getting rid of some small change…. nothing when I pressed the number of the product. So I pressed the reject button.  You know what? It gave me some German coin and wouldn’t accept it back.  That is not the end of it,  I was really looking forward to those m&ms by now.  I tried again using a single euro.  You know what…. the m&ms did a bit of a slide and a tip, and then stuck fast!  I banged the machine hard to no avail…. can you hear my choice words?  So I started marching over to the receptionist, then stopped.  No, I can’t whinge to her about her stupid machines again.  I thought if I put anoother euro in I will get two packets, the send dislodging the first – BINGO!  I felt a sense of achievement when in fact I’d lost out by gaining a krona losing a euro and getting 2 bags instead of one…. but they were worth it!  Small-fry in the scheme of things I know, but just saying……

I thought I’d booked a private single room but shared it last night, and possibly the night before, going by the evidence on arm and face. But last night I heard the high-pitched buzzing round my ear. I had been warned about mozzies in Venice although I thought it rather early in the season. However I did buy some cure rather than preventative treatment, which I wiped over my face neck and arms during the night, and mummified the rest of my body in Alex’s clean linen sheet til morning.

The sun beamed through my open shutters this morning and I felt a pang of sadness to be leaving my little room in the terracotta roof somewhere in Venice today. After croissant and latte (still can’t quite take to espresso this early) I said my farewells to Alex. He is so kind and offered to let me hang on to my key and leave my bags for the day as he had no one in my room tonight. I wish I’d known that as I tried through Hostelworld to add this date but the system said he was full. He said next time contact him direct for a reduced price. I said I would certainly recommend him and would maybe be back myself.

There were two boats to Burano. One in a few minutes via Saborina ( although I only knew that because of my map printout; the other direct to Burano in half an hour. I decided on the scenic route which also went via Lido and some other islands. It also had an open deck and was devoid of people! It was refreshing crossing the lagoon on deck in the cool breeze.

Finally arriving at Burano after about an hour and ten minutes, I just could not believe my eyes. Every little house (and they were all very similar) was painted a different colour and really bright colours. I felt a song coming on “There were pink ones, there were green ones, and blue ones and yellow ones, and they were all made out of ticky tacky and they all looked just the same.”

I found myself a nice spot in the Piazza and ordered a Spritz and hot dog as it was by now around lunch time. It was very pleasant sitting there in the sunshine.

Do you know what this tree flower is Leigh?  There were swallows swooping in and out underneath an archway feeding their young.  As I walked on round this sleepy little island I became increasingly aware of what a thriving industry lace- making had been here. In fact they seemed to be totally reliant on tourism as was most of Venice. I went into the lace museum and watched a movie in the cool of aircon about its history. By the time I hit the hot sun again, boatloads had arrived and what was a sleepy little town was now athrong with Americans and Chinese…. oh those Americans are so loud! I think I arrived just at the right time and was now ready to leave. I waited a few minutes for the no 14 line, which will take me to Ple Roma via Nova around the top of Venice so I will have covered all routes pretty much. I have to say this boat ticket is extremely good value! I still have a day left which I probably won’t use now and could pass to Dom if I see her.

I couldn’t see the campsite shuttle anywhere so caught the number 6 bus as originally on that stormy Saturday night then had to walk the last k in the heat. I was therefore very pleased to see that my twin cabin had pretty much everything I needed including en suite and air conditioning, nice laundered white linen sheets and towel. I have booked so much accommodation on this trip I couldn’t remember exactly what I was getting here. The Camping Jolly seems a well run site with swimming pool, laundry, supermarket, restaurant and bar.

I now have all my washing done ready for Rome and Florence. The only problem is their Internet is down at the moment but hope to get a few blog postings up tomorrow. I plan to have a quiet day by the pool with a book before I take on two more major cities!

I wake to one of my shutters banging… a little cooler and cloudy as I look out, but am cheered as I notice in the little terracotta tiled window in the roof opposite, a large jar containing artists brushes. So I’m imagining an artist’s studio in the roof like mine….

Anyway, today I have just enjoyed my cafe latte and pain au chocolat for breakfast and now plan to buy a 3-day Vaporetto ticket, which I really should have done on that dark stormy night when I arrived. T’would’ve saved me a further 7 euros, Alex advised me. Actually no, when I went to buy it, it was €25 for three days. That will include my boat trip back to Piazza Roma to get the Camping Jolly Shuttle. If I’d bought it on Saturday it would not have lasted for the return journey unless I’d paid more for an extra day. Any way that is just some useful info for those of you visiting Venice!

My Vaporetto pass has definitely been good value today as I used it to get to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection first of all. I baulked a bit at the €16 to get in, but in fact it was well worth it. Firstly there was her own private collection of modern art which included works by Pollock, Picassi, Miro, Kadinsky, Dhali, Mondrian, Warhol, many others from that era. What a fantastic collection! These were exhibited in Peggy Guggenheim’s house which was left for exhibition purposes by the Guggenheim Trust after her death. In the garden, there are beautiful sculptures including some by Henry Moore. Besides these was a further exhibition entitled ‘Mannerism and Surrealism’. This subject matter doesn’t really appeal to me. Although the colours and detail of the pieces were quite extraordinary and were enhanced by an excellent exhibition space. The rooms were carpeted and painted in dark colours, each room different but with very good lighting on the works.

I then decided to take a ride on a gondola (as you do in Venice). There was a point nearby (one of 5), where you can cross the Grand Canal for only €2. I didn’t plan to pay the exhorbitant prices they were charging elsewhere as I had neither romantic lover nor cornetto!!

On the other side I looked around a couple more churches, including the Church of St Samuel… all incredibly ornate and with many altars. There was a basilica which looked similar in design to St Paul’s Cathedral and had six altars around the outside beneath the dome.

A welcome slice of pizza for lunch, then I thought it would be good to put the Vaporetto map I had printed to the test. Firstly by traveling up the whole length of the Grand Canal. I wasn’t sure where the line I was on was going next, but stayed on to find out and just followed the Map. Each line is colour coded and numbered according to its destination. It’s very easy really. I ended up going all the way to Tronchetto where I had began on my first day, then all the way round to Zaccarini, my guest house terminal, stopping at some Islands along the way. When I got back to the home terminal, I took a different line to the island of Murano, which is famous for it’s glassware and glass blowing factory.

It was again a beautiful afternoon to be exploring the much quieter Viennese island of Murano. As we approached the island, we were again presented with a very large piece of beautiful architecture. i took the time to look around yet another church and it will certainly be remembered for it’s incredible mosaic floors.

Most of the area of Murano I had time to see was taken up with either the production or sale of the most exquisite coloured glass – everything from ear rings to chandeliers!

During the return journey which took about half an hour I remembered marvelling to myself on the ease of getting around Venice. More fool me!! I arrived at the now familiar terminal Zaccarini at around 6pm knowing my guest house was just a few minutes walk up one or two alleyways. Two hours later I finally flopped on the bed! I know it’s near here somewhere’, I said to an Italian couple sitting next to me in exasperation, as I sipped a Spritz to calm myself. My GPS had been taking me in circles as it wasn’t updating my position quickly enough. I should have just stuck to my good human antennae system. But visitors to Venice, don’t be fooled that you know the way… all pathways lead to a piazza or a canal, all similar but different!!

Church bells replace cowbells… well it is Sunday! There are just so many churches in Venice; I should really find out how many. As I skirted the island in the Vaporetto last night I noticed a skyline full of spires – Oxford has nothing on this!

At last I met Alex, the owner, and he was just as I imagined him, a young good looking Italian (well they all are)… but one with a difference! He has a degree in fine art. He has been telling me how he has taken on this little pension (just 3 bedrooms with two shower rooms to share) and his own private living space and is gradually doing it up and adding his own personal artistic touch to it. I have to say I am delighted with my little room at the top. His Calle dei Pieta is perfectly positioned in a quiter part of the island and yet just a few minutes walk from a main vaporetta point and about five minutes from St Mark’s Square, the tourist hub of Venice.

After my included breakfast of croissant and Cafe latte at a coffee bar just across the road, I set off armed with Alex’s map and helpful hints on what to see and how to get about.

This morning it was warm and dry after the previous day’s storms, so I decided to put on my cut-offs, in fact my summer gear (which I’d put in a canvas bag yesterday leaving everything else at the hostel on the mainland). The next few days didn’t look too clever weatherwise so today was to be painting day if I got the opportunity.

I headed first for St Marks Square and was really there in no time at all. I couldn’t get near the Basilica as there was a long queue to get in, but viewed this magnificent building from outside. The Square itself is pretty impressive with Venetian style buildings on three sides on a very grand scale. I wandered through many little passageways which usually brought you out to either a piazza or a bridge over a canal, but occasionally to canal with no bridge. (I wouldn’t like to go down one of those on a dark night after a rosso or two!) I soon found my way about using the signage and trying to avoid the crowds. I found it was really best to stay clear of the popular sights, then you could see some of the beautiful architecture that was everywhere, although some in rather a dilapitated state, which kind of added to the magic of the place. I remember thinking how clean all the passages were with so many tourists about… absolutely no litter anywhere, nor any sign of dog mess for there were many pooches following their owners about. I walked on to Rialto Bridge. Never seen so many people on a bridge!! It was in fact the main crossing over the Grand Canal which divides the island. I then headed towards Piazza Roma where I sat down with my slice of Marguerita and listened to an Italian busker making quite a good job of some Simon & Garfunkel songs.

Next I paid €7 to see some drawings and real live inventions by Leonardo de Vinci – fascinating. Went into one or two churches, one where there was a service going on and listened to some beautiful chanting.

I then decided to make my way to a quieter part away from the centre and suddenly saw my first artist sitting sketching a view down the canal. He was elderly and when I asked in French if he was on holiday, he said “Every day is a holiday”. We chatted for a while and shared each others sketchbooks. Then I moved on saying I’d be back when he’d finished there because he had a prime painter’s spot! A little later he waved to me that he was leaving now.

I sat in that lovely spot for about an hour, or maybe two as I was enjoying myself so much, I hadn’t realized how numb my bottom was when I got up. I did some quick watery washes, some more detailed water colours and practiced perspective in pencil, which these Venice scenes definitely required. There was a gentle breeze which was welcome in the hot mid day sun so it was extremely pleasant to be sitting there just dabbling with what I love in a magical city.

Towards the middle of the afternoon I began to make my way back through the less crowded parts, although I had to negotiate Rialto Bridge again to get to the right side of the canal. I promised myself a gelato once over the canal. This was a delicious caramel creme. I later passed a colourful fruit stall and was tempted by a slice of water melon. The pigeons gathered round eager to pick up any pips I may discard.

I surprised myself by walking right up to the place where I’d had breakfast that morning, so home and kicking off my sandals was just around the corner. Phew what a full and quite tiring day.

I took a siesta and woke around 8 feeling quite peckish. I really didn’t want to spend a lot as the accommodation here had taken me way over budget. However it was a beautiful warm evening so I decided to take a stroll up in the quieter direction of Castello. It is a lovely time to be out walking. Fewer people about, still quite light with activity on the water. I found a nice little restaurant beside a canal looking out over the lagoon, and ordered a Carbonnara which looked to be one of the cheaper items on their menu only to find that their wine was expensive. Oh well, it was very pleasant sitting there on a warm summer’s evening watching the boats go by.

(pics to follow when I have better internet access)

Just woken up from a snooze back on the road to find we’re in a traffic jam on the freeway – hopefully brief. Yes we’re off again. Apsley Ski Lodge was very comfortable and Jimmy the owner was most accommodating. The freeway through Austria is an amazing piece of engineering negotiating deep ravines with humungous continuous viaducts. We seem to be near Innsbruck… Ahh just crossed the border into Italy yay!! I am now in this country for the duration – auf wiedersehen Austria, bonjournau l’Italia. Our guide on this leg of the adventure is Kerri (without an e) from Glasgow and, believe it or not, she is an F1 nut, especially Italian! She has just been filling us in on a bit of the history of Italy, the language and the high carb food – oh dear, there goes my diet! Brief service station stop – prawn sandwich for €1.99 can’t be bad. We have to make up some time for hold ups at the freeway toll. Now beginning to see villages sprouting out of rocky hilltops and acres if vineyards sprawling down the hillsides. Was very hot at the service stop but I see black storm clouds looming over the mountains up ahead. The forecast today for Venice is storms, just to add to my concerns about negotiating Venice to find my guest house. Alex, who runs it, was way too laid back in his email before I left the UK. ‘No problema, I can help you’. We’ll see! We have now driven through about 50 miles of acres and acres of vineyards on both sides… no wonder the Italians like their wine! This region is Lavis, Trento according to my GPS. 2nd service station stop, huge slice of pizza and we’re back on the road. Might settle down to a movie – Will Ferrell. ……movie is rubbish, will settle for a music channel and the scenery as we close in on Venice. Just passing Verona and I am reminded of “two gentlemen of Verona”! Just received text from Alex asking what time I will be arriving at his guest house this evening. How the heck do I know, depends on how I get on with his Vaporetti!  I am now sitting in a little restaurant somewhere in the back streets of Venice enjoying the best and most deserved glass of vino rossi ever!!!

Back to the bus some 5 hours ago…. we were hit by a serious thunderstorm just after Verona which continued all the way to Venice with exceedingly heavy rain.  Many vehicles had stopped at the side of the road it was so torrential but our bus continued carefully.  The land either side was like paddyfields.  It was always going to be stormy in Venice so I wasn’t too surprised but it didn’t help my concerns for finding my bed for the night.  Alex had texted that he would leave the door key in the little window so I could arrive when I liked, which didn’t exactly inspire confidence.

Anyway the bus finally arrived at Camping Jolly in the pouring rain about an hour late and a bus full of young people plus two pensioners immediately made a queue to check in.  The Busabout guide helped me with my onward journey on to the island but alas the last shuttle had already left.  Another couple, who I later learned were Amanda and Michael from New South Wales (wouldn’t you know it) also needed to get to the island.  They were going even further than me to Lido.  It was still chucking it down with rain.  Why on earth did I send my umbrella home in that package?!  For a moment we thought about staying here at Camping Jolly for tonight.  The rain eased off slightly so we all decided to follow Kerri’s directions to get the Number 6 bus into Venice.  After all we had paid an awful lot for our Venice accommodation and didn’t want to waste it.  I covered my backpack with my remaining bin liner (you may recall the other was used to send package home but rejected by German post office worker).  I managed to get my asparagas canvas bag containing a change of clothes under my waterproof. The others were more suitably dressed although Amanda had only a thin waterproof poncho.  They both had umbrellas!  Finally we made a dash for it…. take a left outside gate, under tunnel, right, then left up to roundabout, take a right, then go to tobacconist for ticket and get bus just across road.  Well half way there the heavens opened again and we dashed for a tree.  Then lightning and immediately a deafening clap of thunder.  I commented that I remembered being told as a child never to stand under a tree in a thunder storm.  How stupid was that?!  The three of us got to know each other quite well under that tree during the rainstorm.  As it eased off we proceeded.  Now was it right at this roundabout?  We consulted our trusty GPS on iPhone.  Amanda and I thought yes, but Michael was not so sure.  Eventually I asked a woman who was sheltering nearby, firstly if she spoke English – no, what about French then, I asked hopefully remembering I was in Italy and why would she speak anything other than Italian.  ‘Oui, je parle Francais, she replied.  Ok so somehow between gauches and droits and a good soaking we got our Number 6 bus across the causeway to the Tronchetta.  This is our first view of Venice.  Here we needed to find a Vaporetti to take us further afield which is when we parted company, vowing to keep in touch on Facebook, etc.  They had to get the yellow line number 3 to Lido while I bought my 7 euro ticket for the red line number 4.1 to Arsenale.

While waiting at the E terminal I checked with a young Italian who was waiting there, that I was at the right place, and we got deep into conversation.  His English was good and he was so helpful.  To summarise, he pointed out all the landmarks and places of interest along the way on my first Vaporetti trip until he had to get off to go to a theatre production that his friend was taking part in.  He left armed with my business card saying he would like to see my artwork and comment on my blog.  His name was Abramo.

Eventually we were all told to get off at Zaccarini.  But I need to get to Arsenale I said to the Vaporetti guy.  “Walk” he replied doing the walking thing with his fingers. It was still raining lightly and my sandaled feet were cold and sodden, but I was so enthralled by my surroundings I just couldn’t stop taking pictures.  

By now night was falling and lights began twinkling all along the canalside reflecting in the water.  I really needed to find my way to Calle…. what was it?   ….before it got dark and before the battery ran out on my GPS (iPhone).  After much crossing of bridges, going up exceedingly narrow and quaint alleyways (wanting to take pictures of lovely old doorways) finding myself not able to go where the GPS said because it was a dead end or a canal, anxiety again began to set in.  I finally showed the address to a waitress in a small back street restaurant, rain dripping from my hood.  Ah yes, she said, come this way.  She led me through a side door into a very dark and narrow pathway and pointed to a door.  ‘Here it is’, she said.  I just couldn’t believe it!  Such relief and there was the key, as Alex had said, and it opened the door and I found my way up to the third floor passing the shower room on the way to my room on the right.  There was only one other room on the left.  I opened the door to such a welcome sight…. a basic but nonetheless delightful little room with shuttered windows to two aspects overlooking my favourite Italian terra cotta roofs. Inside a single bed with freshly laundered linen and big soft white towel and map of Venice, all as Alex had said.  There was a socket to charge up my phone and I just took off my wet things and sat down for a moment to triumph in my achievement.

Next back down to the shower to wash my feet in warm soapy water and change into my only pair of dry canvas shoes, a change of top too, then back to that nice little restaurant for a well earned vino rossi.  It arrived quickly and did that go down well.  Viva Mo!!  Feeling hungry now, it was about 10pm, I asked for a simple spaghetti dish and a second wine to wash it down.  I was so relieved and chuffed with myself for finding this delightful little corner of Venice.

Around 9pm last night the dark clouds began to illuminate from behind and there were gentle rumbles of thunder. It was quite spectacular to watch above the mountains. The guy who runs this hostel, who is from East London, joined me at the window and said this usually means serious overnight rain which was so needed.  I took photos for a while from my balcony…. not easy as you can imagine, but I did get this one which I am quite pleased with.  It rained heavily in the night, although I didn’t hear it.  I was woken  by loud claps of thunder as the room lit up! In the morning the sun shone as brightly and hot as ever through the open balcony door.

I was sharing my dorm this time with a guy from Saskatchewen and a girl from French Speaking Quebec…. Marjorie – makes a change from Aussies (much as I love em). I chatted for quite a while to Marjorie about travels, etc before we finally wished each other good night. The World Cup was keeping all the blokes downstairs in the bar so we didn’t see the Saskatchewen guy until we were woken by his mobile alarm at 4.30. It didn’t wake him despite it being repetitive and right beside his ear. Marjorie finally managed to turn it off. I see this morning he is sprawled across his bed fully clothed… must have been a good night…. and there was no way he was going anywhere at 4.30 anyway!  I just couldn’t resist a quick sketch opportunity of Saskatchewen guy sprawled across bed this morning.

Good breakfast included then, while the mist was lifting from the mountains, I did this little painting of the view from my balcony.   At around 11, the mist was gone and you could see the gondola going up and down again.  I actually forgot to take my water container with me but no worries. The cows were all posing nicely near the little church so was able to do a few little pencil studies plus a more general drawing.  This looser watercolour I did by pouring some water from my drinking bottle directly on to the colours and mixing as best I could squeezing water from brush with fingers… not ideal but results ok I think.

I just wanted to savour this little peace of heaven. There is so much land to be seen up here undulating way into the distance, that there’s hardly room for the sky. Yet there is also so much sky sometimes blending into the mountain range with cloud shadows dancing across the hillside, I hear blackbirds near, skylarks high and cow bells every where and yet so peaceful…. a butterfly even alighted on my paint pallet.

I just watched a para glider prepare his kit and then jump effortlessly into the thermals above the mountainside. I briefly thought I’d like to do it but peacefully surveying this awesome panoramic scenery won me over.

This has been a truly welcome break from the city but I must now take the gondola back down and prepare for Venice. A complete rearrangement and possible further disposal of items to be packed is required!

Posting photos up (unless from my mobile) may be difficult for the next three days as I don’t plan to take my netbook into Venice.  I’m sure I won’t be able to resist posting pics even if they are just from my mobile 🙂

Goodbye Austria…. so beautiful….. and hello again Italy!

Stuck in a traffic jam on the freeway about halfway to our Austrian ski lodge. Last night was so hot, I just didn’t sleep at all tossing and turning. The storm we were all longing for never arrived and we woke up to another beautifully sunny morning. No heat to deal with as we are straight onto the air conditioned bus at 8 am. This is the fullest the coach has been so far with nearly every seat taken. Previously there have only been about 10 of us. Most of these guys are going directly to Venice today, while I shall be stopping for 2 nights in the Austrian Alps just for a break from the city. The journey is pretty uneventful so far so will have a doze…..

We have been stuck in this very slow moving traffic jam now for about 40 minutes. Not sure what the problem is but it’s going to make these guys late getting to Venice this evening. I guess they’re all staying at Jolly Camping and not having to navigate the city so shouldn’t be a problem.

Ok we’re moving now – seems some road had been closed off. It is looking cloudier outside now but we are heading towards the Alps which I can now see towering ahead. Many Tyrollean style houses now that we’ve left the freeway. Back on the freeway again – must have just been a detour but at least out of jams now!

Finally arrived in idyllic Tyrollean setting high in the mountains an hour and a half later than planned! This is no problem for the 6 of us who are staying here as we have the rest of the day to explore or just chill out. This is our ski lodge.  After claiming my bottom bunk in a dorm for 4, I headed up the road towards the gondola. Finding it closed for lunch, I popped into a small supermarket for some snacks which included a miniature bottle of Pear schnapps. Then i joined a family who were also waiting for the gondola. They had the most beautiful blue merle Lassie type collie… a good conversation starter! It seems they were on holiday from Insbruck. I made up the numbers with another family to fill the 2nd gondola car. The views as we went higher just got better and better. I explored a bit at the top. There was a small farmyard with goats and chickens and bar where you could get your beer or schnapps. I met this little guy on the hillside!

I was just sitting down high up on a bank when who should come along but Dominique. She was also staying at the ski lodge but was in a different room this time. We both enthused over the wonderful panoramic views and wondered if we were high enough to be in heaven. We walked up to the tiniest and cutest little church ever, perched way up on the mountain. It had a modern stained glass window and a little bell in it’s own tiny bell tower on the roof. Inside there were 6 pews, 3 each side to seat 2 people each. Tiny little side windows had views right across the valley of Wildenshoenau. I would like to paint this… maybe tomorrow.

The colours of the mountain landscape and sky seem to change very quickly and, for a while bright and warm with white fluffy clouds, soon became navy blue, menacing and with quite a chill in the air. We took the gondola back down the mountainside together sensing a storm may be brewing and wandered through the little village of Niederau. Before returning to the hostel to watch a movie. Still no storm,  just three drops of rain…. maybe during the night….

Last night Dominique and I spent our hostel vouchers on a glass of beer each…. point 2 of a litre to be precise but it was very nice, at least I thought so, thinking of the bell ringers back in Charlbury.  Dom was not so keen, her preference was cider (she didn’t want her photo taken here!) but we had a long chat about England and it’s strange customs.  Dom hopes to leave Oz and continue her studies in the UK.

Another very warm night in the dorm with the threat of storms. But none as yet despite them being all over the north of Germany on the news. I bought another apple pastry across the street and settled down with my free fruit juice and coffee in the air conditioned common area to read my book. This has to be one of my top rated hostels – Wombats Munich!   My back is playing up a bit at the moment and I am able to lie here in utter comfort on a recliner among trees in the cool.  It feels like you are outdoors but it is a sort of air conditioned atrium with rocks and trees and hammocks, in the centre of Munich!

Ok, I ventured out about 11 with fresh water and GPS charged pointing me towards Marien Platz.  Slightly cooler today and more comfortable for walking.   I headed down Nauhaustrasse into an amazing shopping centre.  You’d love it Em, H&M, C&A and Benetton were the only shops I recognised but there were plenty of really nice German stores… I was drawn into one or two, looking at and even trying on one or two lovely cotton loose fitting dresses.  A voice inside my head said ‘no Maureen, you have just sent clothes home!’  There were several very beautiful churches among the shops offering coolness and quiet from the heat and bustling shoppers and sightseers outside.   The Cathedral is immense and the ceilings quite plain compared with other chuches in Munich, but on an enormous scale. I think you might like to play this organ Richard!

I eventually found myself in the tourist throng of Marien Platz surrounded by beautiful old buildings and the famous clock which does a special thing at 9, 12 and 5 o’clock.

Time for some lunch I think… but heck, the food looks mouth-watering enough and I can tell what it is but how to ask???  There is a list with prices but just haven’t a clue what it means!   Ah… saved by a customer.  He asked for just the thing, a slice of pork with crackling cut off a leg and a piece of freshly sliced ham in a crusty roll. I asked for the same – it worked – Yay!!  You would love this Matt – no veggies or salad, pure meat. Well of course this had to be washed down with the local beer.  I am now in the Viktualienmarkt…  near the Marien Platz and everyone is drinking big ‘jugs’ of beer. I went up to get my small one… there are guys just filling up the jugs continuously. You take one and then move to someone else to pay. They don’t do small!!  Ah well it’s another hot day…. just hope my GPS will guide me back! I’m actually liking this German beer very much, it slips down easily in the hot weather.   I sat with a couple from Berlin. Making conversation was non existent to start with…. I said the beer was ‘gut’!  They nodded and smiled.  Later one of them offered to take my photo.  I said ich nicht spechan Deutch, which I was quite pleased with and one of them said, ich nicht sprechan English, which I was also pleased with because I had understood the response.  Then we managed a bit of chat by nodding and miming. After our auf wiedersehens, I proceeded to explore the market.  Wow, I have never seen anything like this. The colours, varieties of foods and flowers and lots of other curiosities besides, all so pristine and beautifully displayed. I pondered over my favorite liquorice allsorts but decided 5 euros was a bit pricey even for a giant bag, which I really didn’t need. Then I found myself asking for a selection of flavours of homemade Turkish delight at a different stall. I got 4 pieces for 2 euros!! I will savour each one! The atmosphere in the market was bustling, happy and relaxed.
By now the breeze had dropped and the temperatures were high again.

On the way back I stopped at the huge fountain, or rather a number of fountains spouting up out of the ground in a circle, and sat a while allowing myself to be sprayed on all sides…. such a relief from the heat. (Here you can see my silly but very effective hat Mike!)  From here it was only a short distance back to the hostel and my mind was already in one of the hammocks in the atrium.

Good bye Munich, good accommodation, would recommend Wombats Munich and a great city!