Thursday 18 February – Beijing

Dawn breaking over the wing as I slide up the window blind just a little. In stark contrast to the dark wet night back at Heathrow, clear blue sky with a tinge of pink and orange as the sun creeps up to herald the new day in Beijing. Very comfortable night with loads of leg room. Even slept quite a bit after a very nice lamb hotpot. Hardly a murmur from little Archer and he’s still sleeping after our interesting breakfast of Congee with prawns followed by cheesecake and coffee. Still utterly amazed at the price of this flight and my companions paid even less – £350 each to get to the other side of the world and back!

imageI currently find myself in a local restaurant on the way back from the Great Wall. Zhang has been brilliant in looking after me. Just sipping some tea while waiting for pork dumplings.  Way too many dumplings and all for just 20 yuan (a couple of quid).  The Starbucks I just bought in the airport to keep me going til midnight cost me 33 yuan!!

Going back to earlier today…. Yes it was such a relief to see Zhang in arrivals holding up my name. Needless to say, the Great Wall of China was awesome and made even better by the glorious warm sunshine. Stunning light for painting! All the extra layers I brought for this apparently snow-clad wall was totally unnecessary – hat gloves and scarf left in Zang’s car. A tee-shirt would’ve done. I should know better than to worry about these things! I gave up counting the number of steps up and down the undulating way but I did get almost to the top of the left hand summit of Mutianyu.

imageI’m sure I will sleep well on the flight to Auckland tonight. I would fully recommend WildGreatWall Adventure Tours. I’m glad I didn’t opt for a guide. Zhang’s broken English was good enough for me in the car and he even gave me a mobile to phone him in case of troubles. It was so peaceful high up on the wall by myself with very few tourists about. The views across the mountains on either side were stunning.

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I had hoped to get the last two days up on the blog but the Wifi in Beijing Airport is rubbish. I find this hard to believe as the airport itself is huge and up to the minute with every convenience, the biggest one I’ve set foot in, and I have passed through a few! I had to take a train from the terminal to the main entrance earlier. This evening I probably walked a good half mile from the train to the lounge for my NZ flight so not suffering from lack of exercise today!

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just sorted wifi after chatting with lovely Chinese girl who works at the airport but has also travelled widely like me.  She put her own code in.

Just boarding for Auckland…..

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Wednesday 17 February – off we go!

After a shaky start I have finally taken to the skies!
Everything went to plan until I was half way down the hill to the railway station and realised I had left my passport in the scanner. Back half way down the hill the second time and feeling a tad breathless, I was met by passengers coming back up telling me that the 13:08 had been cancelled. Doh now what!? Back home I began phoning some of my friends but they were not available so I popped round to my neighbour. Rita was immediately obliging and even offered to take me to Heathrow but we decided on the Airline bus and she dropped me at Gloucester Green. Thanks so much Rita for stepping in at short notice.image

I was a little worried that i might be too late for the flight as we sat in frustratingly slow traffic jams getting out of Oxford but my fears were unfounded. I arrived at Terminal 3 in plenty of time and everything from then on with China Airlines was smooth sailing… sorry – flying!

From then on positive thinking took over.  Even, would you believe, when I found my seat was right next to a couple with a 10 month old baby!!  Why is everything against me on this trip??  Actually Nicole and Simon were a lovely couple and we chatted happily about travels in New Zealand, and of course babies. Archer is a delightful little boy and so happy… Let’s hope I can say the same by the end of the flight…. some 9 hours and 45 minutes.  Dinner is being served and I have been offered 3 spare seats near the window giving my friends more room to spread out to feed Archer. I must say so far I am very impressed with China Airlines!

I need to transfer some pics from iPhone … sorry not enough wifi time in airport, just pasting in some notes to get stuff on the blog – pics later!

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Sunday 14 February – prep workout

imageI decided on a hike at least to Shorthampton today, leaving at 1pm in preparation for longer walks on my forthcoming trip.  I would wear the same walking gear I have prepared for the Great Wall.   It was a bright sunny springlike day but with a cold wind… similar temperature to Beijing, but totally different scenery I’m guessing.

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At Shorthampton the rolling Cotswold countryside sprawled out on either side of me and I arrived at the little church nestled in the hamlet in no time. image image Taking the opportunity of a brief rest in the peaceful solitude, questioning whether I should go on or return.  The door opened and there was a fellow artist friend of mine, Amanda, who had come to play the organ for the afternoon service.  She suggested a path I hadn’t taken before down near the river and across towards Chadlington.

I’m so glad I did this walk, although i missed the way a few times and got bogged down in some serious mud, I caught little glimpses of Spring along the way.imageimage

a major detour took me past Spelsbury  and the last few miles followed the road back to Charlbury instead of Watery Lane where I expected to come out at the bottom of Pound Hill.  probably just as well as it must have been virtually impassable after all the rain.image

Some three and a half hours later I finally found myself back in Church Lane – I think I must have walked about 6 miles, a little under half of the distance of the Tongariro Crossing which I may attempt in New Zealand…. now that will certainly be a challenge…. I believe the volcanic terrain and steep inclines to be much harsher than the gently undulating Cotswold countryside.  These are English sheep btw!

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Friday 12 February

At last after much communication with Robin and then Ricky in Beijing, I have booked a driver to take me to see the Great Wall of China during my 12 hour stopover.  I hope I shall be wide awake enough to enjoy it and that I have the correct form of clothing to combat the perishing Siberian winds they keep talking about.  Actually my iPhone app tells me it is the same temperature as Charlbury at the moment, so I think I can handle that.

Great Wall

Great Wall Mutianyu

Great Wall Mutianyu

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Tuesday 9 February – planning

Twelve hours in Beijing Airport?? I don’t think so!  Let’s look at the options – I could take a rather overpriced “pod” to get a good night’s sleep – £75? I don’t think so; or a nearby hotel room with a pool?  Actually, I’ve never been to China; what about a bit of exploring… who knows how tired I’ll be.  After all, I don’t sleep very soundly at home so what’s the difference?!

Just checked out some Layover Tours in Beijing and Robin has emailed me to say that Mutianyu Great Wall would suit very well with the time I have available.  Hmm, I hope they can get me back to the airport in time for my onward flight.   It’s pretty cold in Beijing at the moment -10, but it’s getting a bit warmer each day – in sharp contrast to 27 deg temperatures in NZ.  Layers is the answer.

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My neighbour very kindly posted this newspaper cutting through my door.

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Monday 8 February 2016

Well it looks like I’m headed back down under, such is the lure of that beautiful country and its welcoming people… my goodness…. was it really five years ago?!

NZ on top

On the spur of the moment, so it seemed, way back on one cold November night,  I was idly trawling the net for cheap flights to warmer climes, and bingo, China Airways were offering a direct return ticket to Auckland for £560 – too good to be true – so I clicked “add to basket”.  This should not be made so easy to do!  Argghh on rereading the flight details as they came off the printer – London to Beijing 12 hours, 12 hours in Beijing Airport then Beijing to Auckland another 12 hours…. and add a day on while you’re at it why don’t you!

Three months later and I have somehow managed to gear myself into forming a bit of an action plan. After all I have 5 weeks to fill and take off is fast looming.

A treasured botanical painting by 9-year old Hunter in Taupo, my goodness, she’ll be 14!

Hunter's pic

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Friday 27 March – Back to Yangon

Relishing every last minute in this paradise, I took an early morning swim. Patricia was already out on the beach somewhere collecting special shells.   There were little scratched patterns around holes in the sand where the hermit crabs had been busy in the night. The sea was like a more than luke-warm bath and clear to the sand on the bottom.P1040120

We met up for breakfast in Sandoway Hotel Resort.  This was a fully waitressed affair on a decked restaurant on the beach about 200 meters from our residence. After eating a full English breakfast, the morning was spent swimming, lazing and more swimming, with the odd green coconut drink thrown in and a banana or two! How could we leave this?!P1040116

But leave we must! After a light lunch at our favourite restaurant and saying our goodbyes, the taxi drove us back to the airport to catch our flight back to Yangon.

The familiar face of Nye, our Yangon guide, was there to greet us and it was good to recall all our experiences since we left him over a week ago.  28_baby en route 28_Holy Trinity CathedralAs we waited in heavy traffic I noticed this little chap peeping through some railings and then at some lights a very English looking Cathedral stood out on our right side.  Nye told me it was The Holy Trinity Anglican Cathedral built in the early 20th century for the English fighting in Burma.  Despite there being louvers, I read in Doves Guide later that there were no bells and that the pipe organ had been damaged in the war and had been replaced with an electric one.

We mentioned that we hoped to visit a market for last minute shopping but he said it was a military holiday so they were all closed. However he did take the trouble of leaving us to browse a gift shop while he took green tea.   Here somehow we managed to spend almost every last dollar. I particularly wanted some jagoree – a fudge made from Palm sap but he said this could only be found in the Bagan region, however he would see what he could do!  In this country it would seem “Your wish is our command”.

Nye had one more excursion up his sleeve for us this afternoon – China town! This was a busy, exciting and very colourful spectacle . We saw foods we’d never seen before and Nye explained, in the detail only a local could, what they were and their various uses. 27_chinatown 27_chinatown1 27_chinatown2 27_insects in chinatownEventually he spied jagoree and paid for several packs for us as we had no chats left – just the equivalent of 30p a pack!!!

We returned to the same hotel in which we began our Burma adventure and then walked along to The Friendship restaurant again for dinner. 27_Friendship restaurantWe had thought this very cheap when we ate there over a week ago. But by comparison with all the little local restaurants on our travels around Burma, this was dear – 3 times the price in fact, plus they gave us a poor rate of exchange 900 chats to the $1. Heho.

After a fitful sleep I woke just before the alarm went off at 5am. We ate bits of a packed breakfast supplied by the hotel in the reception area, when Nye appeared to transport us to Yangon International Airport.

Slight worry filling in the immigration form as I’d put a my entry visa in my case thinking I no longer needed it. However, no problem, they had all my details on their system, so relaxed with a coffee.

The flight took off on time 7.55 en route to Doha.  Comfortable flight with Qatar and a quick transfer to our London flight.  This leg of the journey seemed like and eternity but a G&T followed by an excellent roast lamb dinner (or was it lunch?) did ease the monotony a little. Plus, over the whole flight period, I did managed to watch a complete series of Downton Abbey!

What a magical holiday!!22_sunset

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Thursday 26 March – Snorkelling

imageBreakfast brought to our apartment by 2 cheery Burmese girls. All manner of cakes, pastries and croissants and a pot of coffee all on bamboo woven trays. We enjoyed this on our balcony looking out on the White sand and turquoise ocean (sorry to go on about the view).

We had booked a fishing boat for this morning, which arrived on our bit of beach to collect us at 8. We thought we start early before the intense heat of the day.P1040052

The boat was a sampan style again, shallow and quite precarious, I’m guessing to avoid rocks and coral below. It had a portable motor rather like a strimmer, which could be ripped up out of the water quickly.

imageFitted with snorkel and flippers I was soon gazing amongst the new underwater landscape of rocks and coral at an incredible variety of tropical fish as well as old lobster pots.

We anchored up at various snorkelling locations before being taken to the fishing village over on the other side of an island, eventually arriving at the desert island where we pottered about looking for shell treasures on the beach.

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Lunch of delicious avocado salad and another local delicacy at a small local restaurant, set us up nicely for a chilled out afternoon of swimming exploring and just lazing.

We returned to the same restaurant for dinner and this time asked them to supply the ingredients for a Pinocolado which was not on their list of cocktails- they were of course very obliging, as we have found the local people to be everywhere we go. Just $8 for a fantastic meal and including 2 cocktails!!!P1040096

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Wednesday – 25 March Ngapali Beach

We watched several hot air balloons pass over us sillouetted against the pink morning light as we headed for the airport.  (I’m rather proud of this photo which was taken from a moving vehicle, and includes not only the oxen which was the subject of the photo, but also hot air balloons and a temple, I understand there was even a pig inside the cart, but couldn’t stretch my luck to tha!) Saying our goodbyes to Kie Soe, we were warned that our flight will detour via Heho.image

25_flight sandybeachOur flight finally turned in over the Bay of Begal, clear turquoise blue, then almost touched the white sandy beach which was to be our last destination before returning to Yangon in a couple of days’ time.

imageA taxi was waiting to take us to Sandoway Residences and wow, what a sight to behold when we arrived!! We were greeted with an ice cold damp flanel, to refresh ourselves, and a cool fruit juice, under the shade of palm trees, before being shown our apartment ON THE BEACH. The door opened into a room like a barn with every amenity we could wish for plus a full wall length view of the ocean and our own balcony and area of beach just outside with our very own sun beds and canework sunshade. Of course, we dumped our stuff, jumped straight into our swimmers and made for the warm clear sea. After lingering a while in the buoyant waters, we returned to our sunbeds to dry off and the next thing we found ourselves sipping coconut juice through a straw and then the white flesh was skillfully chopped up for us to eat, by a young Burmese girl who carried varieties of fruit in a cane tray on her head!  25_coconut girlIn the shade of Palm trees, white sand between the toes, eyes closing listening to the sound of the ocean and no tourists… just a few local people as it was end of season – had I died and gone to heaven?!

A little while lateimager we found a comfortable beach restaurant for lunch – avocado salad and some delicious prawn concoction with beers. So good, It was definitely going to be seafood for the next few days!

The afternoon was spent just relaxing, swimming and exploring along the beautiful quiet curved bay.

In the evening Patricia wanted to seek out a beach awning type restaurant at the other end of the beach made known to her by friends, about a 2 mileimage walk.  There was in fact a whole row of these little family run food outlets and we first called in at one of these along the way with Happy Hour for Pinocolado!  The choice of restaurant we made for dinner was run by a lovely family – grandfather, daughter and son in law (not sure which way round) and 2 delightful toddlers, one of which clearly took to me and I asked the parents if I could take him home back to England. I don’t think they were very keen! We walked back along the beach in the dark, passing the little stone carved mermaid on the rocks looking out to sea.25_mermaid

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Tuesday 24 March – around Bagan

Today we were collected by our guide at 8am after early wake up call … loud singing from speakers around the hotel. 24_white monastery  24_monasterylandscapeAn early start before the 40 Degree heat of the day, 24_peanutcrop 24_PandM in the desert 24_Kieso guidewe took a walk through the desert and besides the numerous ancient stupas, we delighted in seeing an owlet up in the tree and a huge kingfisher, by our standards, on a wire. 24_kingfisher

imageI got some super photos of these birds which I will post up when I get home as they are on my high zoom camera. We then drove out to a gold stupa beside the River with a spectacular view up and down the river, then an early lunch in a small outdoor restaurant called Queen. I chose a delicious coconut milk and we shared a selection of items including watercress salads avocado salad and spring rolls with spiced dip.

We then returned to the hotel for siesta because of the intense heat, even hotter than the day before. We spent some time in the gardens by the pool with a swim or two before the sun beds started filling with other guests. Then we returned to the cool of our room to rest.  What a beautiful surprise in the form of a flower decoration on each of our beds.  24_bed decoration 23_pool

Later I decided must have one of the special massages on offer at the hotel and wow, that sorted out my knots! They certainly mean business in this part of the world.

24_monasterysunset 24_Kie-Soe on his bike 24_coconut rice restaurantOur driver and guide appeared at 5 as agreed and took us to a much quieter location to watch the last of the hot red sun disappear behind the Bagan landscape. We were then dropped off at The Coconut Rice restaurant where we enjoyed a more adventurous dinner and walked back to our hotel nearby afterwards.

Packed and bed for early start in the morning… off to the coast!24_Thazin Garden Hotel

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