Maureen's Travel Blog

Lovely hostel deep in the River Valley. A great place to get away from it all and just live with nature and the elements.
We slept in bunks, 6 to a room in an outside chalet block with kitchen and toilets attached. The showers were outside In a barn! No mobile phone network and only limited internet.
This morning I drew back the curtain to find a beautiful sunny morning – what a difference a day makes!

I was being collected at 8.30 along with 5 others, to go horse trekking. I had had some difficulty choosing between trekking and white water rafting the day before but was glad I had made the right choice. Being on horseback high up on those New Zealand hills amongst sheep, cattle and deer with panoramic views of the mountain ranges, was just heaven, and it was the most perfect warm spring morning. What more could anyone ask for?

These horses had been trained Perelli style (I hope I’ve spelt that correctly), which means they don’t use conventional bridles, just halters without bits. I was impressed how responsive the horses were just to slight pressure and rein movement.

I could perhaps do the white water rafting in Queenstown I was told.

We left River Valley Lodge at 1pm for Wellington, a long drive but with a couple of stops. Bulls was the town to stock up with provisions at Pik n Save. This town will be remembered for its quirky illustrations outside shops reflecting the town’s name.

I think we passed through Oxford although I missed the sign, but many shops had “…. of Oxford” next to their names. Will have to check it out later. As we arrived in the village of Otaki for our loo stop, I noticed that the temperature was a nice 26 degrees. 90k later at 6pm we checked in at the Nomads Hostel in Wellington.

This looked a promising sort of city where I would like to spend more time but I still had the whole of the South Island to investigate in just 3 weeks, so was eager to press on the next day.

Nomads was a busy city hostel and I feared it would be very noisy like Auckland which indeed it was. They were offering a free dinner. Huh!! when it came, it was a small pile of rocket with 6 dry noodles and a small slice of dried bread. So after a drink or so with my young buddies in the bar (oh yes, I tried vodka and cranberry – very nice), I decided to make myself a proper meal – a bowl of pasta with Bolognese sauce and a good helping of cheese on the top. Well, it was ok, filled a gap. I then joined some of the girls who were staying on in Wellington in their room where we shared a bottle of wine or two. One of them, Louise, would be heading back to Auckland where she’d met a local boy!

As the noise intensified in the large bar (I found out later it was someone’s birthday), I decided to have an early night. Silly idea, I could hear the base volume banging on the floor of my room shaking my bunk, as well as the city noise outside the window. Hey ho! I guess the bar must have closed at some point because I did actually get some sleep eventually.

Leigh and Dan took me back to the Urban Retreat,`where I rejoined the bus for the onward journey to South Island.

We skirted the Lake and then headed south over the mountain range. At Motuoapa it began to rain so was not looking good for our two hour trek in Tongarira Park. We stopped in Tarangi to buy provisions as we would be in a very remote place at River Valley Lodge this evening – 36 hours with no phone network and little internet access.

Next we stopped at Tawhai Falls for a quick look at the beautiful blue water falling over the rocks and cascading down the river. Unfortunately by this time the rain had become quite persistent so we got pretty wet in a very short time.

We stopped at Whakapapa Village where there was a beautiful chateaux and spent some time just looking around the information centre as it was raining harder than ever. It was such a shame as I’m not sure anyone believed me when I told them there was a beautiful range of snow-capped mountains out there. All we could see were soggy tussocks.

Next we had a toilet stop at Waiouru and at last it had stopped raining. After this the countryside became very green and hilly with plentiful sheep and skipping chump chops!

Our final stop was a viewpoint in River Valley where you could see the volcanoes for miles.

We meandered in and out of hills and over streams and creeks for what seemed like miles going deeper and deeper into the valley. We had been told that we would be miles from anywhere but this was just amazing. The countryside was absolutely stunning the further we travelled.

At last we arrived, well almost. A pickup truck was waiting to take our rucksacks leaving us to walk the last 100 meters or so down a very steep hill to the River Valley Lodge. It was certainly quite an ‘alternative’ hostel.

Once settled in our dorms, I’m glad I got a bed in one of those as the other option was 16 in one long room in the roof space with just mattresses on the floor and no sheets, 4 of us girls got out a very complicated jigsaw puzzle while waiting for our evening meal. It was still raining and there was no tv. We had booked a roast dinner this evening for $7. I thought this was very reasonable. The jigsaw was fir trees in the snow, basically a blue area for the sky, a green and white area for the trees and a white area for the snow. It was about 18“ by 24” and we managed to get all the edge done before dinner.

The long refectory table was laid for just 8 of us with a vase of flowers at each end. The food was eventually brought out dish by dish, cauliflower cheese, roast pumpkins, runner beans, mashed potatoes done with mustard and seeds and a huge dish of roast beef chunks. Wow and it was absolutely delicious. There was way too much food for the eight of us.

After dinner I went to bed but some of the others stayed up for Happy Hour. I wanted to get a good night’s sleep ready for my planned activity in the morning.

Saturday was a fairly liesurely day just relaxing. It was good not to have to get up early to get the Kiwi bus for once and even better to get tea in bed – thank you Leigh!

Dan was have a few computer software problems so Leigh went into town to the computer store to see if she could get them sorted. I went along as well to do a bit of shopping ready for the next leg of my adventure…. some pasta, shower gel, muesli and some cash, basically.

Later we took Sally for a walk up to the Botanical Gardens, just a stone’s throw from the house. Although most of the Camellias had gone over, the Rhodies were in their prime and the colours were just stunning.

Just on the bank I spied some Lily of the Valley and thought of Mum who passed away over 5 years ago.

The rhododendrons appeared to be in competition against each other for size and colour…..

That’s probably enough to give you an idea!

Leigh poured a refreshing sparkling Feijoa and Pear drink when we returned from the Botanical Gardens.

After dinner in the evening, we popped down to the Lake to watch Buzz setting off a few fireworks for the Kiwi bus group.

Then while the gang went over to Mulligan’s to continue drinking, Leigh and I enjoyed a coffee liqueur back home in comfort… the last bit of comfort I shall see for a while I fear 🙂

Woke up to a fairly bright morning after a good night in the YHA at Rotorua. Good modern and airy hostel, away from the noisy bar which was at Hot Rocks Base Hostel just down the road.

Heading back to Taupo today and many people are preparing themselves to do the Tongariro Crossing.

A group got off the bus at The Geothermal Centre to have a look round while the rest of us went to The Redwood Forest. I’m so glad I made this choice as I had already been to Wai O Tapu.

These trees had been brought in from California to see how they would thrive in NZ. They did pretty well!

This pic just gives an idea of their size.

Again, just love nature’s patterns and textures, and the gold and silver of the ferns…

We left the hostel for the drive to Rotorua today. En route we stopped at Waitomo Walkway. Must give the Kiwi Experience a mention from time to time. It’s so good to be looked after by them and the bus has become such a familiar sight.

Anyway, the Waitomo Walkway was a nice little wake up before our journey ahead. I was particularly taken by the pattern and shapes of the foliage.

We passed through a small town with various New Zealand items hanging artistically along the street with a summer theme, including jandals, pavolova, ice cream, etc.

Our lunch break was to be in Putaruru. This town has a long history of timber industry.

Here I bought myself the most delicious spring roll which had been freshly made, and some strawberries. It is now the strawberry season and they are huge, juicy and plentiful so quite cheap to buy at $3 a punnet, sometimes buy one get one free.

There is plenty of attractive artwork in the form of hangings, statues and mosaics just to decorate the pavements and shopping areas around New Zealand. This fish mosaic was just on the pavement outside a cafe in Putaruru.

Buzz, our driver then talked about the many pointed hills all around us as we approached Rotorua, which are a legacy to the extreme volcanic activity in the past in this area.

I had been in Rotorua a few weeks previously with Leigh, who was attending a conference at the new Energy Centre so was familiar with that part of town. However, we arrived in from the east and Buzz took us along a part of the Lake which I hadn’t seen before. It was quite scenic with lots of water activity going on.

After checking in at the YHA and dumping our stuff, a group of us were picked up to go to the Gondolas and Luge. This involved going up to the top of a mountain in a gondola. I have to say the panoramic views of the city and mountains beyond from up there were stunning.

I’d never been down on one of thse go-kart toboggan type things before and it was a whole lot of fun. There were three tracks down the mountain, scenic, intermediate and advanced. Needless to say, I did all three!

Buzz, our driver is a great character and loved to join in with our activities when he could.

This evening a group of us planned to go to the Maori Village just out of town to experience some of the Maori culture. The bus collected us at 7pm and we had to appoint a chief and attend a welcoming ceremony before going into the village.

Simon made an excellent chief and we were duly allowed to enter after some rather demonstrative and scarey displays from the Maoris and their chief.

We followed the chiefs into a wooded area where there were small wooden houses in a group. It was beginning to get dark by this time and log fires were burning outside each house.

The women demonstrated how flax was used to make almost everything they needed in the way of tools, clothing and materials to built their homes.

Some of the men demonstrated how their young people were taught to be warriors and needed to be agile on their feet by stepping between sticks laid on the ground. Some of us had a go at this. Then we were shown some activity games using wooden poles which we tried, rather like musical poles.

By this time we could smell dinner cooking. We were taken over to see how this is done. All their food is steamed below the ground and covered with earth and sacking to keep the heat in.

But before dinner, the Maoris had more to offer. We were led into their theatre where we were entertained to what can only be described as a short musical performance. This was followed by the Haka which the All Blacks perform before each rugby game.

At last we were led to the dining room where we enjoyed a sumptuous feast of beef, chicken, fish, green-lipped mussels, sweet potatoes, huge tasty carrots, various salads and stuffing. To follow, pavlova and/or steamed pudding with custard and/or cream. I had a little of everything, my eyes being bigger than my stomach again….. well I had been living on noodles all week!

There was more entertainment to come with the family joining together to sing to us after dinner. A mic was shoved under my nose at one point as I was encouraged to sing a line from one of the songs – good thing I remembered the words!

We finally left the village passing by the now dying embers of the little bonfires and chatted merrily on the bus on the way back to the hostel.

But all was not over yet as my young friends encouraged me to join them in the bar. I was passed as ok and duly crossed on the wrist by a huge bouncer on the door and thought heck what am I in for now.

But we recounted our great evening together… always difficult to talk in these places as the music is turned up so high… must be getting old – nah!!

I shared in a shot with them before bed and some of us left together to go back to the peace of the YHA. Phew, what a great day!

Today is a bright morning as we wake up in this beautiful new chalet complex at Hot Water Beach. It rained heavily in the night; you could hear it on the roof, and I felt for the couple in our group who were camping. In fact their tent leaked just a little round the zip and they were a just bit damp this morning.

We left at 8.30 for Waitoma, leaving behind us a wide low rainbow over Hot Water Beach.

The weather was typical for spring in the UK with periods of April showers and warm sunshine, birdsong and luscious blossom. So strange it is November! There would be several stops en route, the first being a high lookout point with wonderful sea view. At this early time of the morning the sun was glistening across the water, but this weather was to deteriorate.

After driving for a couple of hours we stopped at Karangahake Gorge where we were able to get out and stretch our legs. In fact it was a rain forest walk following a river round a cliff edge.

There used to be a Gold mine here. We crossed several wobbly suspension footbridges and passed through some dark tunnels but the scenery was fantastic and the wild digitalis were in flower everywhere.

Our next stop for lunch, was Peroa, not far away. This is known for its drink L&P or Lemon and Peroa and there is a huge replica bottle as you enter the town. Peroa is an interesting town full of antique and craft shops.

I bought a flat white and an apple turnover to keep me going, as well as a small bottle of L&P to try.

We then continued towards Waitoma, passing through dairy and horse country. I noticed a sign to Cambridge where I’d stayed a few weeks ago with Kay and Chris. Our driver, Buzz, who was of Maori descent, started telling us all about the Moari culture; how Maoris have their own lands and strangers must be officially welcomed on it. They own rivers and mountains and have been in this country for over hundreds of years. He said that there were only fish and birds at that time and any other animal had been brought in from outside. He went on to tell us about his tribes and the importance of their tattoos. Here is one of Buzz’s ancestors who was a Maori chief.

Tattoos are done after talking to the recipient and gaining an insight into where they are coming from and their values in life. The three main things he has learnt from his ancestors are that they are warriors, the importance of family and their cultural values.

It started to rain again as we arrived in Waitomo but the hostel looked comfortable enough with 4 beds in each dorm.

After checking in, the rain eased off a bit and a group of us had a little wander around this small settlement on a hillside. Apparently it has a population of 120. There was a very nice little shop selling quality home-baked foods and more up-market provisions. There was a pub and an information centre. But otherwise it was the Glow Worm Caves that were the attraction to Waiitomo. Waitomo means water down a hole in Maori.

At 4 oclcock when the coach-loads had left we wandered down to buy a ticket for the caves. Many of the daring members of the group had been picked up by The Black Water Rafting Company to begin their 5 hours of underground abseiling, swimming and squeezing through narrow places. This was not for me. However, I was intrigued to see the famous glow worm and was able to do this on a simple guided walk tour. The caves themselves were pretty impressive with huge limestone stalagtites and stalamites, many of which had formed columns over thousands of years. The acoustics inside were amazing as our guide demonstrated when she turned the lights off and sang a beautiful Maori song. But the highlight was a short peaceful boatride where the ceiling above us was a mass of tiny twinkling stars in the darkness. These were the glowworms. I have no pictures of these as we were not allowed to take them. The glowworms are very sensitive to light.

Good accommodation at the YHA International in Auckland, although I shared and 8-bed dorm with 7 Chinese girls, so not much chat!

The Kiwi bus picked me up at 8.30 driven by Buzz, a Maori. After all the Auckland pickups we stopped briefly at the Kiwi main office and I had a long chat with Miles who gave me lots of interesting info about the Kiwi Experience. I also bought a teeshirt, as you do. We headed up to Eden Point where there were panoramic views all over the city from a volcanic crater. Unfortunately it was a really grey day and visibility was poor. But here is the stadium where they played the rugby world cup.

We were now heading off to Coramandel and the Hot Water Beach. Although I had already been to the Coramandel Peninsular with Leigh and Dan, I hadn’t visited the Hot Water Beach or Waitoma further on, so decided to go along with this part of the route.

We stopped for lunch in Thames which felt very odd as I had been here before. I even went into the same supermarket where we had stocked up for the Bach in Little Bay only a few weeks earlier. The Kopu Bridge over the Waitou River is nearly finished Leigh.

We arrived at Hot Water Bay in drizzly rain but the Hostel is just the best, a brand new set of chalets set in the most beautiful countryside with their own showers, toilets and kitchen areas.

Our first excursion was a wet walk to Cathedral Cove. This was about an hour’s walk in the rain but well worth it. There was plenty of botanical interest along the way but it was a very steep descent to the beach and a long haul back up.

Next was the hot water pools on the beach. We had to take spades and dig our own pool just as the tide turned at 6.30pm. It was such a ridiculous site…. all sitting in mini spas dotting in a hot thermal area on the beach in the rain. Every so often a big wave would wash over everyone … so more like a sauna with the cold pool effect. In some places the beach was too hot to stand on. This new gang of twenty somethings I’ve joined today are just great and have embraced me as one of them!

After the hot beach pools, I treated myself to fish and chips which they sell at the hostel. I felt I deserved this after two evenings of noodles, and I even tried a battered oyster which was delicious, washed down with some New Zealand beer.

After taking a shower, I heard laughter coming from a communal area near our chalets and went round to see what was going on. They welcomed me with a cup of wine and I joined the party which was made up of our Kiwi bus load and which went on into the evening with one guy even getting out his guitar. Oh this is so much fun and I have made a whole new group of mates in just 24 hours.

Off to Waitoma early tomorrow but you’ll be amazed to hear that I’ve decided against the Abyss, which involves abseiling into the depths of the earth……

Last day of October and it’ a grey day but still a warm 20 degrees. Only one month left of travelling – the time has one by so quickly.

Today is an odd sort of a day as many of the people I have got to know so well left for Auckland on yesterday’s bus, while I stayed behind to meet up with my NZ cousins. So I’m feeling a little melancholy but in a nice sort of way. I was surprised how sad I felt as I waved them goodbye and yet I’d only known them a few days… no worries, we will probably meet up again around the Kiwi route and there will be more new acquaintances on the way.

This morning I took the opportunity of updating yesterday’s blog – I am sooo up-to-date!! I packed up all my stuff, well there wasn’t much really, mainly chargers and jandals. I had to take the sheet and pillowcase to reception along with the chalet key. Sadly Louise wasn’t working today. She is just gorgeous, blond and bubbly, and was always so friendly and helpful – would have liked to have said goodbye.

All done I sat and watched a dvd with some youngsters in the common room. It was full of sexy young things and based in Hawaii.

I did a bit of hostel type shopping – sugar, noodles, coffee, coffeemate etc. (this would definitely be cheaper than putting $2 in the machine for flat white every morning!
Everywhere seemed to be closed today so not many options for lunch so I just cooked one of the packs of noodles in the hostel kitchen and ate an apple.

I guess I have got on to such a high recently that today was the day for coming down from up there!

I am now sitting on the beach writing my blog notes, listening to the crash of the waves onto the sand and watching the paragliders. My bus leaves in an hour so I will just keep looking out for Orcas. Dan had told me they come right into the bay.

The bus finally left for Auckland at 3pm. It was a long uneventful drive on a cloudy day so I just dozed until I was dropped off at the YHA Hostel. Just a few views of the city as we approached.

All a bit strange here and I amback to square one knowing no one. No worries, I need to get some washing done as I have at least 3 more overnight stops before returning to Taupo and things are getting just a bit smelly. Well this would be the first time I’d used the washing facilities in a hostel. I’ve just made a bowl of the more interesting pack of Noodles which was really tasty – a Malay concoction. I can do this hostelling thing, well for a bit anyway. And that reminds me, my clothes should be dry by now so I will go and get them and then catch up with some scrabble before bed.

Off to Hot Water Beach tomorrow – hope the sun shines!

Yet another good night’s sleep and a perfect sunny morning. I was due to return to Auckland on the Kiwi bus this afternoon but was still hoping to meet up with long lost cousin Faye. Although we had emailed each other, we hadn’t really managed to firm up on meeting this weekend.

Anyway, this morning I took myself off to the little Anglican church of St Pauls, which was just a stone’s throw from the hostel. I had noted the day before that the service was at 10 and I always like to check out the local church services whenever I can.

It was All Saints Day and I knew all the hymns well so sang out. It was good to sing again and to give thanks for the opportunity of enjoying this wonderful country and all the interesting people I was meeting. The lady vicar and members of the congregation were very welcoming as always.

I wandered down to the beach afterwards to just sit and enjoy the scenery when a text came through from Faye. Great, we planned to meet up later that day, not only Faye and her partner from Wangarai but also Faye’s sister Jayne and Dan, who live near to Paihia. I was so pleased to be meeting them at last. Lynda my cousin in Ireland had found them while working on our family tree and had visited them herself some years previously. It would seem that we share a great grandmother on my mother’s side of the family. It is so good to know that I have family in New Zealand.
At 4 o’clock I met my newly found cousins for the first time. They picked me up at the hostel, Pipi Patch where I had been staying for the last 4 nights.

I thought Faye looked very much like my Irish cousin Lynda. Her partner is from England and moved to NZ 16 years ago. The five of us decided to go over to Russell on the ferry. This is one of the must dos which I hadn’t managed to fit in as yet…. so perfect! It was a beautiful late afternoon, gentle breeze and warm sun shimmering over the bay.

It was so easy chatting as we got to know each other on the crossing and the boat eventually drew up alongside the jetty in Russell.

Dan, Jayne’s other half was particularly informative about the history of Russell….. such a pretty little settlement and so peaceful. It is quite an arty sort of place with several galleries and I imagined myself retiring here quite comfortably.

As we sat on the boat waiting to return to Paiha, Dan suddenly pointed out hundreds of whitebait swimming from side to side on the surface of the water, darting about and some leaping out of the water. Dan is a keen fisherman. He said they were probably being chased by Kingfish, but there were also diving cormorants which might also be causing the comotion – quite an amazing sight!

We still had a little time to spare before dinner so they took me up to Haruru Falls, not far outside town. Wow, they were pretty impressive, a mini Niagra complete with spray and looked wonderful in the evening light.

We then took a walk through a little forest alongside the Waitangi River, which ran from the Falls. There was so much to see here, lots of different ferns, including Pungas, mangroves, flame trees, plentiful Arum Lilies and the bird life too!

I saw my first New Zealand pigeon in the wild. He was perched high up in a Tea Tree. These are not like our common pigeons, so much prettier, bigger and grey with a wide white band. There were Fantails flitting in the trees, nesting Pied Cormorants (or shags as they are known here), and I even saw a Tui enjoying the sticky nectar from a Flame Tree.

Time for dinner and I was taken to a Hotel along the seafront . First a glass of Pinot Gris and then oh what a treat, a buffet meal where you can choose from a huge variety…. one of those places where your eyes become bigger than your stomach and mine indeed were! I chose a plate of Oysters which I believe I have never eaten before – quite a delicate taste, I thought.

But I think the swordfish with Hollandaise sauce was my favourite. Somehow I managed to fit in roast lamb and pork with vegetables and then…. bread and butter pudding with cream and ice cream…. How big were my eyes!!!

Thank you so much Faye, Jules, Jayne and Dan for a great afternoon/evening and it was so good to meet you. Don’t forget to call when you’re in the UK!

Another good night’s sleep, so good to be in a quiet room. There was a new occupant in the bunk above me, a Canadian girl from Bamf, Savannah. Her first day of travels, she had come direct from Auckland Airport and planned to travel and work indefinitely. This was her first time away from home and she seemed confident and assured. We chatted for ages which again held up the blog, but which is more important eh?

This morning I woke up refreshed – wall to wall sunshine outside (did I say that yesterday?) and clear blue sky. This was just as well because it was the day of my Skydive!

I had equipped myself with a packet of muesli by this time – which was safely installed on the hostel kitchen shelf with my name on it, so a bowl of this plus a flat white and I was ready for anything. The little group that waited for the skydive minibus appeared to be terrified. They were literally shaking in the jandals! I was fairly ok, just a little nervous, but that’s all good 🙂

Lambs to the slaughter…..

We arrived and I was one of the first three to be kitted out in suit and harness, hat and goggles, and some preliminary instruction. We would be going up in threes, in tandem with an instructor. Without going into too much detail, we climbed to 16,000 feet, way above the clouds and into the stratosphere and we had to wear oxygen masks. I thought, flip me, this is over half the height a passenger jet flies at and we were tightly packed into this tiny little draughty plane with no seats and no door. Hey ho! Eventually we were given the signal… the 5 sign and then out we went one by one…… WOW! My ears were popping a bit with the air pressure but I felt I was flying. We were in freefall for a whole minute and then the parachute opened and we just seemed to hang there, although we were still floating down. I even got to steer the thing by pulling on ropes at either side. It was just like that feeling when an aeroplane tips and turns…. Just AWESOME!!!

I have a dvd and loads of pics on cd but can’t access them at the mo!

Needless to say we landed safely and I can honestly say that was one of the best things I’ve ever done….. another first!

I got back to Paihia late morning and decided just to chill out for the rest of the day. I found myself chatting to a bird artist in the outdoor craft market and we exchanged websites.

The day was still very warm although there was some cloud about which helped keep the heat of the sun at bay. I enjoyed a toasted bagel chicken salad by the beach before wandering back to the hostel to sort out my funds which had greatly diminished after the Skydive!

En route, a voice called out ‘hi Mo’ from an outside bar area near the hostel. Luke and one of the other lads (I think his name was Anton) were enjoying a huge filled roll each and a lager.

I bought a beer and joined them. It was so interesting hearing about their work and travel experiences. One of them hadn’t been home for 3 years after completing his degree. He left with very little money and a work permit, and had found the most amazing jobs with luxury accommodation just through chatting on his travels. I wish I had done this years ago!

Anyway I’m off to check out the spa now……

Another great barbie this evening with a free large glass of red wine…. wayhay!

I noticed Daniel was watching the Grand Prix qualifying circuits and we got chatting about F1 (as you do). He is a keen Schumacher fan but was gobsmacked when I told him my daughter worked for Lotus Renault and wanted to hear all about this in detail. We chatted all evening and vowed we would watch the Indian Grand Prix together in Auckland and both sincerely hoped we would have better luck with the accommodation there this time!